Shikoku + Chugoku - Japan

I am very flattered to have won JNTO's Explore Japan trip twice within a year, I don't suppose that means I'm one of the best DIY travelers in Singapore huh? LOL! I really didn't think I would win this again, within a short span of 9 months, so much so when I received a call from an unfamiliar number, I thought some ex-colleague passed my contact to my Indonesian counterpart, because I had difficulty identifying the caller's accent in the first place. However, when he identified himself as Nicky, I suppose there can only be one person, Mr Koshi Nikaido, whom I got to know during last year's East Japan Trip win from JNTO! Pardon me, I'm not bragging my own English standard here, just that I got so accustomed to local accent that if I were thrown into US, UK, or Australia society, I would be the odd ball out anyway. In any case, Nikaido-san's English is good enough to put my 'limited-edition' Japanese to shame. LOL!


He did not seem to remember me in the first place. As when I identified him by his full name, he appeared shocked! LOL! I thought of pulling a prank and pretend I didn't know him and watch his surprise if he finds out later, but not sure whether it would be rude, agh, forget it! ^_^


Nikaido-san praised my submission and commented that I wrote a very touching and impressive submission. I couldn't stop thanking him, but I suppose he probably flattered me and repeated that same statement to the other winners as well :D


Anyway, like last year, I took a while before figuring which of my submissions won, this time, I didn't need to probe, as I caught the mentioning of Shikoku and Chugoku in our conversation ^_^ Frankly speaking, I didn't want so much about winning this one, and I initially thought of giving this away to one of my friends. However, some of them couldn't make the particular week of travel, some couldn't blog (as required), and many of them whom I had doubt about surviving in a relatively remote part of Japan without getting lost... =.=" In the end, in order not to waste my effort, I submitted this one in my own name. The rest are history.


Why Shikoku & Chugoku?

First, a general introduction on Shikoku. Shikoku consists of 4 prefectures, namely Kagawa (known as Sanuki in the olden days), Ehime (Iyo), Tokushima (Awa), and Kochi (Tosa). Shikoku is well known as a pilgrimage island where the famous Kobo-Dashi established a punishing pilgrimage route involving 88 temples for his self training. Though current technology allows pilgrims to complete his deed within a week by cars or trains, the ancient devotees used to complete the entire regime between 40-80 days, bashing through very tough terrain along the way. But till this day, there are still die-hard devotees practicing the ancient way! *respect* orz
Like I said, this wasn't my only submission this year, and I actually more fond of going elsewhere. However, I have to admit humbly, my Shikoku (四國) & Chugoku (中國) entry probably won due to the fact not many travelers have much knowledge on this most sacred and unfamiliar island of Japan more than my (limited) capability with words.


I had been there before, back in 2008, but only a brief half day trip from Okayama (岡山) during my hanami hunt, and I had always relish the chance to visit Dogo Onsen (道後溫泉) in Matsuyama (松山)!

My itinerary basically circled around Seto Naikai (瀨戶內海), much as I would like to include the San-in region (山陰道), the train network and time constraint did not allow me to factor it in in the first place. But when I eventually learned that I in fact had another day, it was too late to reshuffle my itinerary without major restructuring. In any case, the last gateway of my itinerary is in Hiroshima (廣島), it's a few hours train ride away or even via highway buses, Okayama would be a better gateway getting to San-in-do, the Japan Sea side of Chugoku. Moreover, the attractions of San-in-do are quite scatter, I suppose I have to be less ambitious this time.



Getting Prepared

Winning the contest with my submitted itinerary was only the first part. Getting prepared was next. During my planning, I never factor in any accommodation, hence next, I began my frantic search for hotels. There are many hotels within Shikoku, but not that much made themselves available on the internet, particularly in English. So the hassle of translating the original Japanese content into some language that I can understand took considerable time. In the end, I was very pleased with my selection, eventually, these hotels not only offered much needed convenience, but also great hospitality!


I won't be like other participants, elaborating whatever sun shade, moisturiser, gadget, or the accessories they brought along for their trip. I found these very subjectable to individual need and had this to emphasize: In any large Japanese city (please, I'm not referring to those rural countryside here), basic amenities are easily available everywhere, this applies for Shikoku & Chugoku too, need not bring along unnecessary belongings, so just bring along your camera to capture some memorable moments along the trip ^_^ Of course, depending on where you are coming from, you may need a travel adaptor and maybe multi-power point, I leave that for your own justification but just to point out Japan uses 110v, 2 parallel flat strips power point.



Getting There


Unless you plan to purchase a Shikoku Free Kippu (Shikoku Rail Pass) or Japan Rail Pass, it makes economical sense to plan your route one-directional, without the need to repeat any segment between the prefectures.


I am very privileged to be given a pair of shuttle tickets from Japan Airlines, allowing me to fly right into the heart of Shikoku, in my case, Tokushima (德島), from Haneda (羽田--東京國際機場). Buying shuttle air tickets within Japan may not be as expensive as you may think if you have your means. I understand that occasionally, the airlines offer ¥10,000 one way ticket as in my case, I found out from my air tickets.


But otherwise, most travelers made Shikoku a side trip from Kansai, Chugoku, or even Kyushu, rarely Kanto or beyond.


There are currently three bridges linking Shikoku to Honshu, namely the Akashi Ohashi (明石大橋), Seto Ohashi (瀨戶大橋), and Shimanami Kaido (しまなみ海道).
From Osaka and Kobe, there are regular highway buses to various part of Shikoku. But Japan Rail Pass holders will almost definitely find themselves entering Shikoku from Okayama via Seto Ohashi to Takamatsu (高松).
From Kyushu, there are ferries from Beppu, Oita, and Kokura.
From Hiroshima, there are ferries linking Matsuyama (some stop over in Kure), and buses linking Shikoku via Shimanami Kaido, which links Imabari (今治) and Onomichi (尾道) from Hiroshima Bus Center.




OK, now my trip in Details ~ ^.^ ~


I was somewhat pondering getting to the airport in an economical yet convenient way. My flight JL 036 departing at 21.55 hr means I have to reach airport around 19.55 hr, and I have to set off around 6.30pm... agh.. super peak hour =.="


Ended up, I had to stand all the way on the train to Tanah Merah, however, fortunately I didn't really encounter peak hour crowd I anticipated.


I only managed to reach Changi Airport MRT station around 8.10pm, by the time I brushed my teeth, checked-in, and cleared custom, it was already 8.35pm, leaving really little time for me to shop and foot-massage. And by 9.30pm, I was already waiting inside the holding area after clearing final pre-boarding check. Boarded the flight at 9.40pm and I was greeted by the first horror of the trip... I lost my camera lens cap of my new Canon EOS600D! I was already on the plane, and I thought it would stir a big hassle if I am to trace back for it, and just as I was resigned to losing it, I saw on the opposite alley, an air stewardess was holding up high a camera lens cap which I suspect was mine! I ran and chased after the air stewardess and was rather fortunate to recover the lens cap, otherwise, I was pondering getting one from one of Japan's electronics shop.. Phew!

I didn't have much time sleeping for the 7-hours flight, as I watched "I am No 4" onboard and was quite fascinated by JAL's touch-screen LCD display. I caught some sleep before waking up for the breakfast, and carried on watching "Naruto: Shippuden - the movie" as I ate my tasteless breakfast. The flight did not offer me a selection option like I normally entitled, as the stewardess handed me an omelette breakfast without asking me for option, and I didn't manage to find the food menu in the front seat basket anyway. But, I was grateful for the free flight and delighted in recovering my camera lens cap that I would happily forgo any breakfast at all!

Day 1: 23 Jul 2011 (Sat)

 

JL 036 touched down on Tokyo International Airport at 5.40am, Ohaiyo Gozaimasu Haneda! It's been 9 months, and I certainly didn't expect to be here again so soon! I was one of the first Singapore visitors on the first flight to Haneda's Tokyo International Airport in 31 Oct 2010, and was very impressed with Haneda's efficiency, this time, there's no difference at all, as I managed to clear custom by 6am, collected my luggage by 6.15am, washed up and happily snapping pictures at the airport before boarding the free shuttle bus for Haneda Terminal 1 Domestic Airport at 6.37am.

When the shuttle bus passed by Terminal 2, I saw ANA's Pikachu flight and was very tempted to stopover for a quick snap, but I wasn't sure whether I'd have enough time to catch my flight to Tokushima and would have to give it a miss >.<" 

Tokyo International Airport basically split the domestic traffic from its two main carriers into Terminal 1 (JAL) and Terminal 2 (ANA). And within the terminal itself (I can only speak for Terminal 1, but I suppose it applies for Terminal 2 as well), two wings are split for traffics to Northern and Southern region respectively. I was really shocked to see the crowd queueing at the North-bound counters, it was scary and I hope I won't have to queue as long for my Tokushima flight. My flight JL 1431 departs for Tokushima at 0730 hr, I must say I had never expected such crowd over a Saturday morning, and I was beginning to worry about catching my domestic connection flight. I learnt that I have to queue at the centrally-located check-in counters, before joining another queue for checking-in luggage. Eventually I managed to check-in by 7am, and within 10 minutes, sent in my luggage as well. And by 7.15am, I already boarded the flight through some 'privileged' queue, close shave! I had to take a shuttle bus to where the plane was parked, as I was the last who boarded the bus, I turned out to be the first one out, and first to board the flight ^_^

I had not taken a domestic flight since 1997, when I transit between New York JFK & Atlanta. But this shuttle to Tokushima is definitely more enjoyable! By 8.50am, the flight taxied punctually at Tokushima Awa-Odori Airport! I had to say, the flight was surprisingly full, and I didn't expect there would be such volume on this flight to Tokushima, a relatively small prefecture comparing to other more prominent Japanese cities.

As I proceeded to the luggage belt, I couldn't help amazed at this tiny domestic airport. There were only two luggage belt in the airport, and my luggage was fast to appear. I went to the toilet after collecting my bag, and was surprised how they decorated the urinal with a carpet mat!

Once out of the restricted zone, I found there's an art exhibition right in the airport hall. There were some photos displayed which I reckoned not as good as mine, and I was wondering would I be famous if I had submitted mine? LOL!
Oh, tough luck, just as I would like to take out my Casio EX-G1 for photographing, I noticed that the battery was flat. It must have somehow left on during my flight >.<" Luckily I still have my Canon EOS600D before I managed to find somewhere to charge my portable camera. But I'm afraid it would be playing no more part today.

I deliberately missed the first available bus to my next destination, Naruto Kanko-ko, because it was only going as far as JR Naruto Station, and I would have needed a transfer. So, given an allowance of about half an hour, I spent the time exploring Tokushima Awa-Odori Airport, and I must confess, it fascinated me more than some boring American International airports I had been to, though it's still far apart from the quality of many Asian International airports.

There's even a kiddy's corner at Tokushima Airport!

A small airport with a 'big' souvenir area and food outlet!

The passage to the Observation Hall

Look at the neon light along the passage way! Amazing huh?

JL 1431 from the Observation Hall :D

The open space in front of Awa-Odori Airport

Tokushima is famous for its Awa-Odori dance, and the airport has statues on their trademark dance!

Found this brochure at Awa-Odori Airport

Many probably only relate Naruto to the smashing manga by Masashi KISHIMOTO. But long before his Ninja World of Konoha was brought to the massive manga fans, Naruto strictly refers to the Tokushima city famous for its whirlpool. This nature wonder doesn't happen overnight, and the manga character's whole name is UZUMAKI Naruto, which literally translate to 'the whirlpool in Naruto city', it's not difficult to figure out Kishimoto had intended to relate his lead charater to this tiny city in Tokushima, afterall, he's based in Okayama, a close proximity to Shikoku!
I bought my ticket for Naruto-Kanko-ko (鳴門觀光港) ¥460 from the airport ticket vending machine but later realised I could pay onboard as well.

When the bus came a little late, I was so worried that the bus might have left earlier and I had missed it. Alas, boarded the bus at 9.34am for Naruto Kanko-ko and reached there around 10.17am.

It's easy to recognise Naruto Kanko-ko, the bus will make a u-turn after reaching, and you virtually alight, and later board, the bus from the same bus stop. Just look out for the destination specified at the front of the bus, whether it's bound for Naruto-Koen (鳴門公園) or Naruto-eki (鳴門驿).


However, take note that Highway Buses from Osaka / Kyoto will only alight at Naruto-Koen, from where there's a long walk (maybe about 15 minutes, I wasn't sure) from a highway, or you can wait for the approximately hourly/half-hourly local bus. But, nearer to Naruto-koen, there's another tour cruise company "Uzushio Kisen" at Kameura-guchi offering better rate on smaller ferry and there's a Uzu-no-michi Walkway where visitors don't need to take any ferry, but view Naruto Whirlpool from atop the bridge. Somehow, I believe the experience won't beat the close encounter on a ferry.


Many thanks to JAL, I was able to reach Naruto at such early hours without the need to spend a night nearby, and many hours on the road. I deliberately missed the current ferry and bought a first class ticket ¥2,530 for the next schedule half an hour later before depositing my luggage at Naruto Kanko-ko for ¥100. I did some research on the timing for the tide, and noted that today's high tide will be at 11.50am, the best timing to catch the whirlpool is +/- 60 minutes from high tide. Making my chosen schedule at 10.50am the earliest among the choiced slot to view the whirlpool from close. So what did I do before the 30 minutes wait? I walked around taking photos of course!

The waiting area was almost empty when I came in, but as the time got closer to my chosen ferry, it became crowded with loads of tourists coming in coaches. Well, they certainly knew how to choose a good timing too!

Souvenir Shop from the observation gallery

Some local delicacies

Port view from the Observation Gallery

First Class Seats.. actually, if I didn't mind the trouble, there are plenty of room for my luggage while I was roaming around the deck for photographing

Ferry boarding began 5 minutes before departure. I made my way through the lower deck crowds and climbed the stair to the upper level First Class deck. There were only me and a family of 3 on the upper deck. In a way, the extra ¥1,000 had given me much convenience roaming around for photo taking. The lower deck capacity really didn't allow much moving space. As soon as the ferry departed the jetty, a boatman came barricaded up the passage way to the upper deck.

Naruto Koen is at the left end of this bridge highway. Naruto Kanko-ko is at the bottom right corner of this picture, after getting down from the hill at the right side of the picture, and cross a road.

Naruto koen and Uzu-no-Michi are at the middle of this pix, and the whirlpools occur beneath the bridge at the left

From another angle, Naruto koen and Uzu-no-michi occupying the right side of this picture! And the whirlpools are happening underneath this bridge, Naruto Ohashi.

Underneath the bridge

The 'eye' of a whirlpool.. Notice the calm sea around it make it outstanding

During the time of my visit, the whirlpools weren't that prominent. Yet this is a rare opportunity to visit Naruto, I won't think I'll have another opportunity to visit again :(

Oh mine! See how many more coaches arrived upon my return to Naruto Kanko-ko! All 7 of them!

As I stepped into the holding area, there seemed to be more crowd at the hall, apparently they knew the best time to visit the whirlpools! I collected my luggage, and set for that same bus stop. I did look around, but there's no other bus stop in the vicinity, so I stopped the first bus I saw which came within minutes. I thought I saw that it was bound for Naruto-koen, but I'd rather play safe to check with the driver than to wait another 30 minutes or more. Afterall, there's only slight difference between Naruto-Koen and Naruto-eki. I asked the bus driver, who confirmed my judgement. It took a few more minutes before the next bus came by, this time, I believed it's the correct bus, but still, I asked the bus driver before boarding. Because, in a chain effect, any slight mistake here, I would need to wait an hour for the next connecting train. My judgement was right again.
My heart was pounding vigorously as the bus seemed to inched through its route, denied by a few traffic lights, before reaching Naruto-eki at 12pm. I only had less than 2 minutes to cross the overhead bridge and purchase the ticket. I gave up, despite still carrying (not dragging) my heavy luggage and hastily heading towards the station. But on the overhead bridge, I managed to discover something very un-Japanese... Land mines! Haha! I mean, poo! I suppose some strayed dogs must have done it, good thing I didn't drag my luggage! :P

Naruto-eki

As I was approaching the ticketing machines, I saw a young station lady exclaiming to some students, who were attempting to purchase tickets from the machines. They immediately ran for the train without getting the tickets. I couldn't understand what they said, but seeing this, I also followed suit. I caught the train with merely seconds to spare, and collected a ticket chip upon boarding. Japan's train system can be rather confusing, some allow getting a ticket chip onboard (and then you pay to the driver upon alighting), some not (eg. Yamanote Line in Tokyo). I found this a hassle for non-Japanese speaking passengers, but so long as you play safe & get the ticket from the station, I suppose you need not worry.
I had been pondering about exploring Naruto Station & within if I had the time, but I'd rather savage this one hour to arrive Takamatsu earlier. Anyway, Naruto Station is a small terminal station to Naruto Line, and no significant shopping complex nearby. I knew there's a small shopping center where visitors can indulge in Naruto's Ramen, where they use seaweed (a local specialty) to spice up their local version of this Japanese delicacy.
I managed to grab a seat on the train close enough to observe how passengers alight and pay their fare, and somewhat concluded it's similar to how most Japan buses operate, where passengers collect a ticket chip as they board, and pay the due (according to the fare related to your boarding station printed on the ticket chip) upon alighting to the driver or the station master. So even though I had to make a transfer at Ike-no-tani Station (池谷), I needed to pay upon alighting at Ike-no-tani station, not my eventual destination, Takamatsu.
Anyway, I reached Ikenotani at 12.20pm, paid the driver ¥210, alighted the train and crossed a bridge to a connecting platform for a Kotoku Line (高德线) to Takamatsu (高松). I could have taken the immediate train Limited Express Uzushio, which only took an hour to reach Takamatsu from Ikenotani, but it charged about ¥1,000 more than Kotoku Line. I'd rather save on the cost, and spent some time snapping pictures on a small town which I'm very unlikely to visit again.

Naruto Line @ Ike-no-tani Station

Ike-no-tani Station

The sleepy Ike-no-tani town behind the station on a lazy Saturday afternoon

The horizon from Ike-no-tani station

Kotoku Line for Takamatsu

Kotoku Line came from Tokushima, arrived at 12.40pm. I found myself a seat and slept for most of the 2-hour trip to Takamatsu. For once, I was grateful for a slow train which allowed me more time to recuperate from jet lag and a closer analysis on their train system. I found that the local train wasn't that slow afterall, it was just that they stopped at every station, unlike the limited express train. And, they have to give way to the limited express train, even though sometime that means docking at a station for a prolonged time for the faster trains to pass by.

Ooh! Old friend! Anpanman poster greeted me as I reached Takamatsu!

Likewise, I did not buy a train ticket from Ike-no-tani station, merely collected a ticket chip from the train upon boarding, and paid at Takamatsu station upon alighting (¥1,210). I reached Takamatsu at 2.43pm, an hour earlier than planned. So much so better, I could have more time doing my favourite hobby in Takamatsu... Shopping! But I'd need to squeeze in one agenda this afternoon, just so I could leave for Matsuyama earlier the next day. I was pondering on Ritsurin or Utazu, but finally settled on the former.

Takamatsu-eki

It's been a long time, 3 years to be exact, when I last came during my hanami hunt, and I must admit my recollection on Takamatsu Station had faded almost entirely. But I still remember well of its exterior!

Highway Bus Station

Same old Flower Clock ^_^

It took me a while to locate my booked accommodation. I was somehow disillusioned by the given map and went to the right end of the station, but actually, my booked hotel was just in front at the left end of the station!

Hotel Area One Hon-kan (Main Building)

Hotel Area One Annex Unmanned Reception

I hanged around the station for a while before finding the hotel, the most convenient I could find within my budget. I checked in at the main building at 3.15pm, and was allocated Room 515 at the Annex Block. I wasn't very pleased at first, but later on, I found it was more convenient in the sense, it was more like a service apartment where there was no one manning the entrance at the Annex Block. Patrons would be given a RFID tag for entry into the building, and then at the service counter, there were maps, information leaflets, and free flow coffee powder, tea bags, sugar and creamers for free consumption. I helped myself to more than a few ^_^

The room seemed to be a double room, and I was puzzled why didn't they offer me a single room at cheaper rate? =.=" Anyway, I took the next 25 minutes settling down, left my Casio EX-G1 charging, furnished a bit of research, before heading for Ritsurin, a garden the local proud as equivalent of Okayama's Koraku-en (one of Nihon Sanmeien 日本三名園, along with Kenroku-en in Kanezawa and Kairaku-en in Mito). I didn't want to spend further on transport, hence I strolled the next 40 minutes to Ritsurin, appreciating the grace of Takamatsu along the way. It's a good thing I took an earlier train from Naruto :P

Ritsurin East Entrance

I found that Takamatsu has very little pedestrians on the road on a Saturday afternoon, perhaps slightly more cyclist, but otherwise weird for the largest city of Shikoku. I took the North entrance to Ritsurin, paid ¥400 for admission fee, and began exploring around.

 

So, Ritsurin is a typical Japanese garden boasting pond, small hut, bridges, and many odd stones. Perhaps it was the season I was arriving, Summer sees little grace of it, but I was certain come Autumn, or maybe even Spring, the garden will be beautifully decorated with maple red or cherry blossom! Even in Winter, the snowflakes hanging on the pines should provide quite an eyeful! To say Ritsurin is comparable to Koraku-en is perhaps over rated, but it's still quite an eye-candy nevertheless! I thought I recalled seeing a plague stated that where odd stones are concern, Ritsurin is perhaps the best among Japanese gardens. Perhaps, but I wasn't so much coming to see the strange rocks.
It was about 5.15pm when I left Ritsurin. I was already hungry like a <(=@=)> having skipped lunch and merely relying on some biscuits I brought all the way from home. I did not want to trace route the road I came, but decided to walk the covered shopping alleys around Takamatsu's city center.

Tamachi was the first I came across from Ritsurin, I really enjoy shopping in Japan's covered alleyway even though most of the time, I merely bought drinks and chocolates :D

Very often, on top of such covered alley way, one can find fascinating decorations, and in this case, dolphin!

Agh! Finally found a local cuisine good enough for dinner (late lunch?? =.=")...

I was attracted by this large signboard, and the small sign at the corner, stating they self-made their udon noodles. Hmm... Kagawa (old name Sanuki) is so famous for this noodle that it's a must-try in Takamatsu, let me order their recommendation ~ :P...

I ordered this Summer limited edition (in Japan, many stores like to use the phrase 'limited edition', this is one way to capture attention), ice udon (ice cubes included!), with jelly, spring onions, clams at ¥509 for a medium bowl (I AM REALLY HUNGRY!). I thought of adding tempura to my meal, but later changed my mind. It's not that I had never eaten udon before, but their noodle was exceptionally Q and chewy, not as tasteless as those I'd tried back home, and soaking in the sweet soup, presenting a sweet aftertaste upon eating. Oishii! Although those small clams were somewhat tasteless, as was the jelly, but at least it provided that icy softy feeling. Anyway, Sanuki Udon... ICHIBAN!!!
I had a very enjoyable first meal in Japan, and I thought of visiting Sunport Takamatsu later in the evening for some night shot right after shopping.

Complicated architecture

Takamatsu's sewage cover

However, then came my next hiccup. I didn't realise my watch stopped functioning >.<" All the while, I thought I still had plenty of time, but was wondering suddenly how come the sky had fallen dark so soon when I somehow learned that time was passing by too slowly. By then, it was too late to rush to Sunport Takamatsu to witness the sunset. Sigh...

When I saw this castle of Tamamo Park, I knew I was getting close, but the sky was significantly darken, suggesting sun probably already set >.<"

Kotoden Takamatsu-Chikko Terminal

Passing by Takamatsu-Chikko Terminal, it's a small station comparing to JR, but seemed packed with features!

Finally reaching the port, a big ferry was departing for one of the islands in Seto Naikai. I was puzzled, for such a large vessel, was there any volume to justify?
Anyway, I would only be staying Takamatsu for a night, I knew the night scene might be spectacular, and didn't waste much time exploring it! ^.^

I left my Casio EX-G1 at hotel charging, and this was my maiden night shot with my new Canon EOS600D, on one hand I was fascinated by Takamatsu's awesome night view, but I was equally pleased with the effect and speed of EOS600D. ^_^

Oh! I met an old friend, Ao-Oni kun

So much for my night adventure on my first night in Japan, time to return to hotel & penned my first post for JNTO ^_^

Hotel Area One

The Annex Block where I was staying

Good night Takamatsu!



Day 2: 24 Jul 2011 (Sun)
Morning woke up at around 8am and began packing. No breakfast included in my plan and I munched on some of the biscuits I brought along from home. Ah, for me, it's a budget trip afterall! ^_^ Good thing the hotel was providing free flow of tea (bags)!

I checked out at about 8.45am, and wanted to deposit my luggage at the hotel, but the duty staff pointed me to the paid locker in front, where I had to dig out a ¥100, I was grumbling inside but not showing any sign of it. For this was the first time I had to pay for such service =.="

By 8.50am, I was already at the bus counter in front of Takamatsu Station buying afternoon 1.50pm bus ticket to Matsuyama (松山). I was glad I did not see the crowd I came across yesterday afternoon, which would easily require more than 30 minutes queue. I didn't want to buy the ticket yesterday, not solely because of the queue, but very much due to I wasn't sure how would be my progress in my itinerary.

Highway Bus kippu (ticket) bearing my name in katakana ^_^

I paid ¥3,900 on the plastic, and was pleased my research helped saved ¥1,600 from taking the limited express train, which I would require to make a transfer and moreover, free seating. And did I mention the highway bus would only be taking 4 minutes more than the train to get me to Matsuyama Station? It could be faster than the train if my destination is Matsuyama-Shi (松山市) rather than Matsuyama Station, saving me precious time and the hassle of another bus transfer!

Dosan Line for Utazu

After getting my afternoon bus ticket for Matsuyama, I wasted no time proceeding to the train station for a local train to Utazu (宇多津, ¥540).
I remember seeing Anpanman train during my previous visit to Shikoku, and I was searching on the platform for any sign of the train but to no avail. Disappointed. I was hoping to see it before heading for Matsuyama in the afternoon, as I was worried once out of Kagawa, chances of seeing one would be more remote.

Wow! It's the special trolley train leh! I never took this one before! @_@

However, when the train reached Kamogawa (鴨川), I saw the train in the opposite track! I immediately dashed out of my seat, pressed the button for the door to open, and quickly snapped a picture before getting back to my seat satisfactorily, ignoring the probing glance from passengers nearby ^____^

But when I reached Utazu at 9.30am, I found myself greeted by another Anpanman train!

This is what I am more familiar with!

And before I exit the fare gate, I discovered these posters:

I found a kiosk inside the station selling Anpanman T-shirt! Kawaii!

Shikoku is very famous for Anpanman related items, they even have Anpanman Bento (lunch box)! The author for the manga, Takashi Yanase (柳瀬 嵩), was borned in Kochi, and that's why Anpanman is very much the icon of Shikoku.

Utazu Station South exit

But I wasn't really here for the Anpanman, Utazu is such a pretty district, which many travelers do not know much about. Firstly, from the south exit, a short walk away, is Shikoku's No 78. Haha! That sounded weird isn't it? But in Shikoku, whenever the mention of a Number between 1 to 88, it may well refers to a particular temple related to the sequence in the list of Shikoku Pilgrimage Route. So No 78 here relates to Goshoji (鄉照寺). I wasn't here for pilgrimage, much as I was tempted to visit one of the temples among the list, I would only do so if I could squeeze out the time. In any case, I probably missed out the most prominent No 1, Ryozenji (靈山寺), while in Naruto. But I did have plan for one interesting one, read on!

Big Tourist Map on the North exit of Utazu Station

I'm here for the attractions at the northern front of Utazu.

Utazu Station North entrance

On my train here, I came across a prominent building with many cartoon figures decorating its rooftop, which I couldn't recall seeing before in my previous trip, let me walk over and have a closer look.

Weird Architecture huh?

I think it's a shopping center, probably something to do with liquor..

I didn't hang around there for too long, before resuming my way towards the sea. Along the way, I recognised many familiar buildings that are still vivid in my memory!

Bellco Hotel

Kagawa Junior College

PlayPark Gold Tower - The tallest building in Shikoku

I was quite impressed by the Gold Tower! When adequate sunlight grace upon it, it will reflect a glowing sparkle from afar. I think there's an observatory deck on top, but I wasn't willing to pay for it :P
And the following one deserves a special mention!...

The World Glassware Hall

http://seto-glass.com/

During my last trip here, this shop was closed. I didn't expect much fanfare inside, but this time round, my curiousity drove me in. Well actually, whether to go in or not, both would be a big regret! I'd miss the amazing glass works and collectibles inside if I didn't step in, but I stepped in anyway. My next big regret was I couldn't resist digging out the plastic! Bought myself a little red stone-crafted pig, and a small token for Nikaido-san. I would really love to buy more if not the hassle of carrying around before my flight back to Singapore =.="
Pictures were not allowed inside, but their collections were worthy competitor of those I saw in Otaru's Kitaichi Glasswork. And they even conduct workshop for visitors to make simple glassware. I spent a considerable time inside, fascinating myself at the amazing souvenirs on display, and really hate to leave but I just got to >.<"

Utazu Rinkai Koen (宇多津臨海公園) is a Sacred Spot for Lovers. It was the monument here I saw 3 years ago that kept me enchanted till this day. The plaque is the same, but.. but... the monument was stolen?!

This monument was commissioned by "Missionary of Bridal", Yumi Katsura, a pioneer in bridal gowns in Japan. Lovers tie a locket with their names written on it, and then throw away the key, to signify 'Forever in Love'. But I don't know whether was it because so many couples conveniently swing their hand and 'accidentally' dropped the key into the Seto Sea in front, that the authority decided to remove it for good?? =.="
In its place, was a new sculpture:

Agh! I couldn't interpret this one... =.="

I didn't see any couple in the broad daylight, only saw a Pig. Wait a second... from a farm nearby??

I understand that at night, this place would be illuminated, but I ain't got any more time for that, I would be leaving for Matsuyama in the afternoon =.="
Well, that much for a park?? No, of course not! The local has more interpretation for that!

Looks like a sewage cover, but this was the closest I could find of any reminiscence on the 'missing' monument.
But my primary objective was to come here and see this... Seto Ohashi!

I must say, the mist really didn't do the awesome view of Seto Ohashi any justice in these pix, I was obviously disappointed. But Utazu remains an easy accessible spot to appreciate this longest two-tiered bridge system of the world, without the need to climb hill or pay for it!

Utazu can be family-oriented and pet friendly too!

A small cafe and ... I oso dunno wat?! LOL!

Salt Pan/Boiler Shop

Shikoku was famous for salt making among others in the early days, and Utazu had restored a salt pan/boiler shop which conduct regular workshops to demonstrate making salt the traditional way using salt pans and boiler, a method originally developed in the Edo era.

I had just mentioned Utazu Rinkai Koen is a Lover's Sanctuary (Sacred spot for Lovers), it couldn't get more convenient as there are wedding chapels just behind, catering for the need of impulsive couples right after visiting here! LOL! Just kidding, reservation would be necessary ^_^

Wedding Palace St. Catherine

While I was there, some wedding preparation was in progress, and Charlene's "I've Never Been to Me" was played over the loud and crisp PA system, I was enchanted! That was really a romantically beautiful song to play over such occasion! What really surprised me was that, it was an English hit many years ago, for it to be played here, was real surprise to me, it signified that the Japanese are opening up in embracing western culture!
Wedding Palace St. Catherine was a revelation in this trip. I didn't recall seeing it few years back, but it never really was my center of attention here.
Just when you thought "That's it?"...
Be patient, now let me introduce another Utazu favourite that kept me mesmerised since...

Cier et Mer

I encountered this white chapel in 2008 Spring, that time probably merely two years after it was built. But this Summer, I noted that some of its impressive sculptures were starting to come of age, cracks emerged although still relatively clean. Last time I was here, I also saw a long white stretched limousine, it was nowhere to be found this time round. But still, this wedding chapel remains awesome as yet!

It seems like Cier et Mer is another of Yumi Katsura's involvement?

These angels created a very romantic feel on the chapel!

So much for the angels! Did they give you an Italian feel? You couldn't be blamed if you somehow thought you had landed in Italy :P Wake up, we are still in Japan! LOL!

Well, so much for Utazu, I afraid. I still had a bus to catch and would have to forgo No 78 (remember what's that?? Agh.. nevermind! haha!), not unless I forsake my lunch, but it would be almost 3 hours later before I could get something to eat, moreover, I wanna give myself enough buffer in case there's some boarding procedure for the coach. It's a matter of 60 minutes or 30 minutes buffer, I'd take the former.

So, on very pleasing mood, I bid goodbye to Utazu, like I did some 3 years before. But this time, I guessed I'd really won't be back again, such opportunity rarely comes by...

The pavement beside Cier et Mer

I suppose these illuminates at night, and when they do, will create a romantic atmosphere for lovers walking by!

Au revoir Cier et Mer!

Oh, by the way, I haven't yet explained the meaning of Cier et Mer. French speaker will probably understand, but I believe Cier is actually a mis-spelled word for Ciel (Japanese don't really distinguish the pronunciation of 'r' or 'l'). So, together, Ciel et Mer means "Sky and Sea", which I must admit, very appropriate given the location of Cier et Mer, where it is perfectly located to oversee the sky and sea of Seto Naikai, the fulfilling feeling is simply marvelous!

Back in Utazu Station, I noticed something which I probably overlooked on my way here, the railway co had really optimised the spaces for advertisements! These were offers on rail travel where passengers could definitely not overlook as they were climbing up stairs! Of course, ignorance would be another matter! ^_^
Everytime I visit Japan, there's bound to be one song commemorating the trip, this time, I heard the melody of Teresa Teng's Love's Present (爱的礼物) or what I later learnt to be translated from瀬戸の花嫁(a 1972 song by 小柳 ルミ子 Rumico Koyanagi), on the train platform while waiting for train back to Takamatsu. How appropriate in Utazu!

Wow! Another Anpanman train to greet me on the platform! :D

Had wanted to take one of these trains, but guess they are all limited express and I couldn't find it justifiable without a rail pass :(

 

I returned to Takamatsu and reached the station at 12.32pm. As I left the platform, I saw this small kiosk inside the station and curiosity drove me to take a look. I knew it was an Udon shop, but just wondering how much it would cost me. I was pondering about getting an Anpanman Bento (¥1,100), but the price and portion simply couldn't be justified, I would be paying for the Anpanman bento box >.<"

Udon with spring onion and Japanese fishcake ¥320

This eatery was rather unique, it's a standing restaurant, which catered for train passengers, but also having a tiny counter for those outside the train station. Eventually, I settled for their basic udon. And their noodle, despite not as tasty as the one I tried yesterday, was as chewy and the soup quite appeasing too! At ¥320, it's quite a small portion, but it's enough for me to last until dinner ^_^
After lunch, bought tea from the supermarket (¥59!!!) walked around before collecting luggage from hotel locker.

It was Sunday in Takamatsu, they had a Sunday market leading to the seaside. Great! Let's take a look at what Takamatsu had to offer before my journey to Matsuyama!

I was always fascinated by Japan melons, always such big in size, but cost ¥¥¥!

I wasn't interested in Sanuki chicken, but I was more keen on these plush :D

Tamamo Park

Must pay... so let's just take a glance inside :P

No, this isn't my coach to Matsuyama, it's a local bus, nice isn't it?

This is the outlet selling Anpanman Bento

The Anpanman bento portion is small, and came with an Anpanman drink ^_^

Back outside, I finally caught sight of a pilgrim, identified by his white suit

A stone throw away, a lady was feeding pigeons with her children ^_^

Fascinating Takamatsu huh? I really wished I had more time here...
I collected my luggage from the hotel, and proceeded to the bus station nearby, waiting patiently for my coach. Unexpectingly, the hotel locker returned my ¥100! :D

Shikoku Highway Coaches (for this route at least) are jointly operated by JR, Shikoku Highway Buses, and Iyotetsu

The bus came merely 5 minutes prior to departure, the procedure was as simple as: The driver collected the passengers list from the bus office, and verified the correct passengers before driving off.

Bye Bye Takamatsu!

There were two seats on each side of the bus walkway. Fortunately, there weren't much volume hence each passenger virtually kept two seats to himself. I carried my luggage up, let it occupied the empty seat next to me, and virtually slept all the way to Matsuyama, waking up about half an hour before arriving at 4.35pm, making the entire journey to Matsuyama station taking mere 165 minutes for a relatively smooth trip.

The highway coach dropped me off right in front of JR station

Matsuyama Kanko-ko limousine pick up point

Within minutes, I found the limousine pick-up point for Matsuyama Kanko-ko (Matsuyama Tourist Port) right in front of JR station, and confirmed the schedule as well, very convenient! In fact, much better than at Matsuyama-shi, as I found out later.

Matsuyama Tourist Information Ambassador ^_^

While crossing the road from the bus center in front of the rail station, I saw this lady dressed in traditional costume just beneath the big tourist map, it was later that I found out she was a representative from Matsuyama's Tourism Board. They set out in frequent interval, probably accordingly to train or Matsuyama Kanko-ko limousine timing to provide necessary assistance to visitors!

I was very pleased to have found this hotel, so conveniently located at the corner of the junction, just within 1 minute walk from Matsuyama station.

Hotel Map and nearby amenities

Matsuyama has that little bit of complication as in, unlike most other cities, this JR station doesn't lie in the city center. The city center, Matsuyama-shi (松山市) lies some 1 km away (on map), and 15 minutes by tram. The vicinity around Matsuyama probably will not be as prosperous as Matsuyama-shi, but its distinct advantages are, it's closer to Matsuyama Kanko-ko, and proves a better integration if you plan to utilise JR train network.
In Matsuyama, the city's major rail network is not JR, but Iyotetsu (Iyo is the old name for Ehime, Iyotetsu means Ehime Electric Railway). But, there's an Iyotetsu station (Otemachi, 大手町) near JR Matsuyama station, and the city's street cars (tram) links both stations well, so any inconvenience is reduce to a minimum. But for shopping convenience, staying near Matsuyama-shi will be an absolute choice!
OK, so much for the introduction, let me get back to my blog proper! ^_^

Contrary to the tiny reception counter, the lift platform on my level was quite spacious for a small hotel!

Room 705 is at the middle of this picture

 

Power is triggered on by inserting your room key, which means I could not leave my appliances charging while I'm out :(

Room 705

I proceeded to the hotel I had booked, and was allocated Room 705 with a city view, diagonally overlooking the junction in front of JR Matsuyama Station. I had some difficulty communicating with the hotel staff with my limited Japanese and their even more limited English, as always the case :P
After checking into the room, I rest for a while before resuming my itinerary. The immediate dissatisfaction I had, was the lack of a LAN cable inside the room. Kind of weird, normally hotel will keep it in handy location. Here, I had to ask one from the reception.

My free companion for my two days in Matsuyama ^_^

It was about 4.30pm when I left the hotel. I read before coming Japan that this hotel was providing free bicycle rental, but I couldn't pronounce it in Japanese, good thing I knew the kanji for bicycle (自転車, ji-dan-za), I scribbled it down on a notepad (I carried it around in Japan, I knew it'll come in useful!), and asked about ryu-kin (料金, cost), just to double confirm it's free :P I must confess I did not anticipate riding bicycle throughout my stay in Matsuyama, but I discovered later that Matsuyama is quite a bicycle-friendly city (except for that Okaido stretch), thus I forgo the idea of taking the street car totally, saving me enough for a decent dinner! ^_^
It's probably too late a time to truly visit any attraction of major interest, most of Japan's outdoor attractions close around 6pm, and it would be unwise to rush myself. So, I spent the evening reconnaissance on tomorrow's route. It's essential, I shall elaborate shortly!

Starting from Matsuyama station, naturally..

My hotel, from a closer distance

Matsuyama's old street car, there's a newer type, and there's also the commemorative Botchan Rassha, which I encountered, but was too slow in taking out my camera >.<"

The entrance to the hill park

First stop, foot of Katsuyama. I planned to climb Katsuyama in order to reach the castle. Not today of course, but as it's some distance away from where I stayed, I am searching for a spot to park my bicycle prior to the climb, so as to save cost taking tram and the ropeway.

Ehime NHK

At the side of the park entrance, is Ehime's NHK. The banner on the building was advertising for the current Taiga serial (大河劇) broadcasting over TV prime time slot on Sunday evening, Saka-no Ue-no Kumo (坂の上の雲), a story mainly about Russo-Japanese battle during the early 20th century penned by Ryotaro Shiba (司馬遼太郎) from a Japanese point of view naturally. The leading roles in the serial, Akiyama brothers, were borned in Matsuyama, Shikoku. Ironically, the previous Taiga serial, Ryoma-den (龍馬伝), starring Masaharu Fukuyama as Ryoma Sakamoto, a Tosa (now Kochi) samurai responsible for bringing forward the Meiji Restoration, also brought Shikoku into the limelight!
Many of Ryotaro Shiba's works had been made into movie or serial, except, until recently, for Saka-no Ue-no Kumo, which he had reluctantly declined for the fear of beautifying war in this historic epic. But after he passed away, his wife authorised the production, though not without much interference.
Throughout my stay in Matsuyama, I could not stop seeing everything about Saka-no Ue-no Kumo related items all over the city, incuding museum, souvenir, banners etc. But I wasn't a bit interested, to be honest.

While I was there, there seemed to be some high school tournament going on...

..and a circus coming end of the month, but the animals are already there, I could smell them! LOL!

Found this map at the foot of the hill, I recognised that the best trail for me would be from Kuromon-trail. Along the way I could appreciate the Nino-maru Garden, and the shortest path from where I stayed. There's a sheltered bicycle tent some 300 meters away where I could leave my bicycle while visiting the castle on top of the hill. Essentially, that's the reason for a recce, I needed to know where to leave my bicycle, or else I'll have to take a tram here or walk here if the distance is somewhat manageable.

Ehime Prefecture Office

Bansuiso Villa

Saka-no Ue-no Kumo Museum

I took my way back along the main street of Matsuyama in front of the Prefecture Office, and came up against Bansuiso Villa and Saka-no Ue-no Kumo Museum side by side within minutes. When I reached there, it was 5 minutes passed six, both had just closed for the day. Anyway, I wasn't interested in the museum, but Bansuiso Villa was a French-style architecture built in 1922 for then Lord of the Matsuyama Clan, Hisamatsu Sadakoto, as his country estate. It is now an annex to the Ehime Prefecture Museum of Art and offers visitors a glimpse into the essence of Taisho era.
As for the Saka-no Ue-no Kumo Museum, it was opened in 2007, exhibits vestiges of the Akiyama brothers and poet Shiki Masaoka (正岡子規), who appeared in the novel, as well as showcasing the town development and local resources. Entrance fee: ¥400. I would say, forget it! LOL!
(After note: It was a decision I grew to regret, upon finding out the architect being Tadao Ando many years later, and this would be the first Tadao Ando's project I have seen in person, albeit only the building outlook. The novel Saka-no Ue-no Kumo was written by Ryotaro Shiba, it was about the stories of the Akiyama brothers in the Russo-Japanese naval battles, who were born in Matsuyama, and that's why the museum is built here. The war resulted in the defeat of the Russian empire and subsequently led to the emergence of Japanese military awakening. Not until his death, author Ryotaro Shiba had strongly disagreed to translate this historical work into TV serial, unlike his other books, for fear of glorifying militarism. And that was the main reason I shunned this museum in the first place. His surviving spouse eventually gave the go ahead for NHK to produce a TV serial based on this novel, but this translation encountered many hiccups along the way and production met with several suspension before finally air on TV. Ryotaro Shiba was merely trying to put forward a story based on historical development, and I hope this serves as a reflection of Japan's subsequent misdeed which caused them devastating destruction.)

Matsuyama's sewage cover, colour version ^_^

Matsuyama's most famous shopping alley, Okaido, which I planned to visit, but perhaps later ^_^

The road to Higashi Kumo Shrine entrance of Matsuyama hill

Matsuyamajo-guchi ropeway

The newer type Matsuyama Streetcar

Dogo-koen (Dogo Park)

Dogo Onsen eki (Dogo Tram Terminal)... umm.. I'm getting close to the real stuff! ^_____^

Ooh! Botchan Ressha!

I haven't mentioned Soseki Natsume (夏目漱石) did I?
Soseki Natsume was almost synonymous with Matsuyama. He was teaching in Matsuyama when he wrote a few notable novels, particularly Botchan, which was set in Shikoku, and widely regarded as a loose autobiography of himself. The characters in his book, and certain items, had very much been popularise in Matsuyama today, giving this nostalgic city a fable-like setting. Even the much acclaimed Dogo Onsen (I will touch on this in a while) graced his presence during his days in Matsuyama.
Back to Botchan Ressha, as the name suggested, it's related to Soseki's novel, Botchan, featuring in his book, but was otherwise, an import from Germany. It started service in 1888, a year after Iyotestu (Iyo Railway Company) was founded, and was established as the first transportation between Matsuyama and Mitsu in Japan's history, and was the very primitive rail in Shikoku.

Botchan Karakuri Clock

A stone throw away, facing the Botchan Ressha, is this Karakuri Clock. At hourly interval (and sometime half-hourly), the Karakuri Clock will rise (Yes, Rise), and characters from Soseki's Botchan will appear from inside to appease the crowd amidst the accompanied music. Ah, anyway, I was only on a recce mission, I shall come back to this the next day ^_^

Dogo Onsen!!!

This is the star attraction of my visit to Matsuyama, Dogo Onsen!
In coming to Dogo Onsen, it can be regarded as an onsen pilgrimage. For, this is probably where it all started, some 3000 years ago, when locals first experience hot spring, although the building here was merely built in 1894. There are two legends of Dogo Onsen:

Legend of the Egret

An egret who injured its shin, soaked into the hot spring of Dogo (that time the bath house was yet to be built of course!) regularly. Eventually, it got well and flew away. People who witnessed this soaked in the hot spring themselves and discovered that their health improved tremendously. And so, the news spread, that was probably how the ancient Japanese’s interest on onsen initiated. This is very much a similar story to the discovery of many other Japanese onsens, except that, probably a different animal was involved instead, but a more fictitious Dogo Onsen legend below may sound more interesting!...

Legend of Tama no Ishi

Long time ago, there were two gods, namely Okuninushi no Mikoto and Sukunahikona no Mikoto, came from Izumo to Dogo. The later contracted an illness and was in critical state. However, his health turned for the better after soaking in the hot spring, and upon regaining full health, he couldn’t help dancing happily on a stone in the hot spring as an evidence of his regained vigour. His foot print then left a lasting impression and now, that stone is on display at Dogo Onsen!

Regardless whichever story you buy, Scientists had proven that regular soak in onsen will help reinvigorate health somehow, though probably mainly on de-stressing, muscle relaxation. For irregular bather like me, I suppose I can call it an eye-opener. Anyway, I wasn't prepare to dip into the pool yet, let's just look around and I shall elaborate more after my visit the next day.

Perhaps I need to mention, I first heard about Dogo Onsen while in Kobe, where I bought a box of bath powder during my trip in 2008, and inside I found Dogo bath powder. Then, I recalled the animation by Hayao Miyazaki, Spirited Away (千と千尋の神隠し), where the bath house in the anime was believed to be modeled after Dogo Onsen. I was visiting Arima Onsen then, another of Japan's famous onsen, and perhaps the best! I thought Arima was the outstanding one in every aspect, but not true where architecture is concerned. No onsen can beat Dogo in terms of that. And I was thinking of visiting Dogo Onsen then, but found out it's in Ehime, and I probably had to travel via Seto Ohashi and through Okayama. I didn't realise that Hiroshima can be such a pleasant gateway to Ehime then.

At the side of Dogo Onsen, I found this Tama-no-ishi (玉の石), but I didn't notice the foot print??!

Maybe this is it?! That little dent mark on the stone?

Notice the small arrowed signboard? It probably meant during Meiji 36 years, Taisho Emperor (then crown prince) was here for a soak. The imperial bathroom is available as exhibit at a cost, but not for public usage.

Back of Dogo Onsen, let's zoom in on the signboard!

The arrow indicated here's Yusin-den, Imperial Bathroom

Referencing the two signboards, I could roughly make up where the location of the Imperial bathroom, Yusin-den, is located! ^_^

I wasn't sure whether these figures diagonally opposite Dogo Onsen are from Soseki's novel, Botchan, but I suspect so. See, basically the whole town are so fascinated by Botchan, or rather Soseki, that somehow the city are decorated into a Meiji era town!
OK, so much for my recce today, it's 7pm, and I was already hungry, let's see if I could spot some delights at the Dogo Shopping Mall (Haikara Street) nearby.

Ooh!!! Totoro!

I found a Totoro shop inside Dogo Shopping Mall! This shop has definitely brought me back to my childhood, if only for a moment!

Another onsen hiding within Dogo Shopping Mall

Botchan!

Cat Cafe, but not sure whether cats allowed inside??

Ah! Who did it?! Not me! Not me! LOL!

Found this restaurant... Setouchi Ryori, freshest catch from Seto Naikai

.. and I was immensely impressed by the affordable price of ¥1,100

My Chirashi sushi... Nothing beats the real thing! ^_^

I dug out my handy notepad again, jotted down the katakana of the order and showed it to the ojisan (uncle) taking my order. He nodded and repeated the order which I didn't understand of course, whatever you said, ojisan! LOL!
It took awhile, but when my order arrived, I was very impressed by the colours and reflection of the raw sashimi, very much indicating the freshness of the seafood! Oishii~~ And frankly speaking, it's one of the best sushi I'd ever tried! The meat was sweet and fresh, and even the wasabi tasted differently, I presumed it's either the taste of freshness, or it's of a different class!

I was deceived by the outlook of my order. I didn't know there was another hidden layer, much to my delight! I found that the ingredients were more than rice. And when I ate halfway, I suddenly tasted a sweetness I had never tried before, and found it came from some black ingredient, which I wasn't able to tell what was that. At this price, it couldn't be caviar huh?

Dogo Onsen eki @ night

A closer look at the older type street car and a quick peep inside :)

After dinner, I walked back to Dogo Onsen eki, where I left my bicycle at a bicycle lot behind, and began riding furiously back. I timed the trip, it was approximately 40 minutes, enroute I turned a wrong junction and found myself landed at Matsuyama-shi :P


Day 3: 25 Jul 2011 (Mon)
I woke up 7am in the morning in the company of a gloomy weather which was certainly not a good condition for climbing due to the slippery track, so I continued drafting my blog post for JNTO in a somewhat futile effort. There were simply too many photos to compress, too much itinerary to write, not to mention the organiser's email kept bouncing back my previous mail. By 9.30am, I gave up and made a quick decision to bring forward my visit to Uchiko (內子), which I initially intended to keep it as a surprise package (for (JNTO) the following day. I jotted down the time schedule and transfer details from hypedia on my notepad (I would like to print, but the hotel charge for printing), and made my way towards Matsuyama station, this was one big reason why I was staying near JR Matsuyama Station rather than Matsuyama-shi.
And at 10.13am, I was already on the train towards Mukaibara (向井原, ¥740), on Yosan Line which I was going to transfer to Uchiko Line at Mukaibara.

The transfer was suppose to take place within one minute, however, after I alighted at Mukaibara, I waited for more than 10 minutes, still no sign of Uchiko Line approaching. This was weird, because Japan trains are usually punctual, and since there's not a faintest sign of train disruption, I began to wonder whether I should have stayed on the train instead of alighting. I checked the timetable, the next approaching train would only come in 2 hours... *FAINT*
By then, the train for the return journey to Matsuyama sharing the same rail track had just left, with the next one approaching in another 30 minutes. So, am I gonna wait 2 hours or get back to Matsuyama? 2 hours would have severely impacted my itinerary and besides, there wasn't much attraction to keep me from boredom in this man-less station or the vicinity =.=".
Perhaps let me just share some scenery from the station:

Ahead of the platform..

Behind the platform

Beside the station

Actually, the platform is also the station itself..

Saw a market across the road, and decided to take a look! Firstly, because I had nothing better to do, secondly, I was always fascinated by Japan food produce, even back home in Singapore!

My favourite fruit! But the price was multiples that of what I could get back home, though I admit, the appearance are unbeatable!

The ¥780 ones are closer to what I could get back home, but are still looking way better! :P....

Bargain apples from Aomori

(L-R): Aomori apples, Tokushima pears, Ehime mikans

Peanuts! Another favourites of mine, quite affordable prices too!

carrots and cabbages

Melons... I remember seeing these selling for easily > S$50 at Kimisawa back home

Iyo-shi (伊予市) Post Office, Mukaibara is situated in Iyo-shi, which is few stations away

OK, got to go, back to Matsuyama that is.
I took the 11.23am train back to Matsuyama, enroute Iyo-shi, was wondering whether to stop over to take a look at this old city? But decided against it. It was probably the old state city for Ehime but had out-developed by Matsuyama along the way? Anyway, nostalgic feeling maybe, but couldn't expect much fanfare.
When I reached Matsuyama around noon, I accidentally passed the station master the ticket to Uchiko. But when I gave him the correct ticket from Mukaibara, he seemed more confused. He must had puzzled about why the tickets were in different fare zone. He tried to asked me in Japanese, which I couldn't understand. And he didn't understand my situation either. I dug out my notepad with the scribble, trying to illustrate to him when I reached Mukaibara, I alighted but didn't see any connecting train coming, but he simply failed to understand. Spent a considerably long time there before one young station lady spoke a sentence in Mandarin! Wow! Impressive! Out of all, I really didn't expect to hear Mandarin there!
After hearing all I had to say, the young station lady explained that actually I didn't have to alight while in Mukaibara, and suggested I took the next available train from Matsuyama to Uchiko to resume my journey. I declined, because by then, I would probably only able to make it back in late evening, and I didn't have a revise train schedule with me. Anyway, I told her, I didn't understand the fuss, since I had already paid the ticket to Uchiko, so all's left was merely paying the fare for my trip between Mukaibara to Matsuyama.
At least the station lady understood what I was trying to express, and after discussing with the station master, they agreed to refund me the fare difference which I didn't ask for anyway.
Well, it wasn't really my fault, I was probably sabotaged by the confusion caused by hyperdia over the confusion. Afterall, if I transfer Yamanote Line to Sobu Line in Tokyo, I'd still need to alight don't I? For someone who doesn't understand Japanese, it's really hard to apprehend their local practice =.="
They cautioned me they would make an exception this time, but who cares? I probably ain't gonna come Matsuyama again, and probably even less so for Uchiko!
I returned to the hotel, but was held at the reception to wait for the room cleaning to be done, despite my plea to merely dropped some stuff in the room. But fortunately, it only took a couple of minutes. So, I left my EOS600D in the room, and carried on with my EX-G1. I would be climbing hill, and I wasn't sure whether the route would be muddy. I might fell, and the slope might have made any bulky items a liability, I ain't gonna risk my new DSLR. I borrowed the bicycle from the reception again, and this time, thanks to the recce yesterday, I was able to execute the rest of the day's plan smoothly ^.^

The bicycle parking lot is at the left side of the picture. The ferry wheel in the background is the landmark of Matsuyama-shi

I left my bicycle locked at the parking lot, and proceeded on the Kuromon-trail.

Ni-no-maru Entrance

Ni-no-maru charges entrance fee of ¥100, I was, at first, tempted to pay a visit, but later I thought, perhaps I shall get to the castle first, on the way back then decide whether or not it's worth it.
Well, lucky I did that. Because as I ascended further up, I saw the view of the garden free of charge! LOL!

Ni-no-maru Garden

It took me some 20 minutes ascended to the foot of the castle, albeit with several intervals along the way :P But it was a good exercise although obviously I don't have much fat to burn! ^_^

Tonashi-mon (戶無門), a designated cultural treasure

Now, before I got to the foot of the castle, the very first (among many) gate that greeted me was Tonashi-mon, which meant Door-less Gate. I had been to many Japanese castles, the concept of a door-less gate was not something usual. It wasn't clear to me the purpose of having a door-less gate, since the purpose of a castle was to sustain any potential threat from beyond. Perhaps it was meant as a strategic decoy to distract attackers, which reminded me of the famous battle plot of opened-gate (空城計) employed by the great Zhuge Liang (諸葛亮) against the wily Sima Yi (司馬懿).

Tsutsui-mon (Tsutsui Gate, 简井门)

After getting through the Tonashi-mon, visitors would get to the Tsutsui-mon, this would be where potential invaders met with the first realistic level of resistance. But if you think 'that's it?', you are underestimating the wisdom of ancient Japanese warlords!

Kakure-mon (Hidden Gate, 隐门), a designated Japanese cultural treasure

Right beside the Tsutsui-mon, well hidden in a deliberately angled stone wall, was Kakure-mon. When invaders came to the Tsutsui-mon, their eyes would be disillusioned by the stone wall, without realising there would be another gate where the defenders of the castle would be hidden, waiting to spring a surprise assault on the attackers. Let me show the official illustration to share some vintage Japanese wisdom:

Impressive design huh?

There are plenty of gates in a castle, and I shouldn't be elaborating on each and every single one of them. So, let me just skip the insignificant ones to keep this (probably boring) post comprehensive ^_^

After getting through the subsequent Taiko-mon (Drum Gate, 太鼓門), the foot of the castle came into sight. I was in no rush to proceed to the castle, preferring to appreciate the surrounding for a while prior to that, afterall, it wasn't easy I came all the way here!

The name of Matsuyama means Pine Mountain in English, naturally, the sight of pine trees are anticipated

Skyline of the Shiroyama Park (城山公園) beneath, the red colour tent was a circus due to perform from the end of the month of my arrival

The only refreshment corner on the hill

Just as I thought I can sneak in without paying, I was stopped by Yoshiaki-kun =.="

I paid ¥500 for the entrance fee, and began my exploration of the castle.
Matsuyama Castle (Do not confuse with Bitchu Matsuyama Castle in Takahashi, Okayama) was built in 1603 by Kato Yoshiaki (加藤靖明). It had a large 5-storey tenshu-kaku (Main Castle Tower, 天守閣) which was moved to Aizu Castle when Kato was transferred there. The next lord didn't manage to complete a new tenshu in his lifetime and didn't leave any heir, hence the feat was eventually completed by the subsequent lord, Matsudaira Sadayuki (松平定行).
The castle, situated atop Katsuyama, is itself a designated Important Cultural Property of Japan. It is also one of only 12 remaining castles in Japan with a castle tower (tenshu-kaku) built before the Edo era.

Shichiku-mon (Purple Bamboo Gate, 紫竹門), an Important Cultural Property

Ichi-no-mon (First Gate, 一ノ門), Important Cultural Property

As the name implied, the First Gate is the very first gantry entering the castle. From this angle, noticed something strange?

Ni-no-mon (Second Gate, 二ノ門), another Important Cultural Property

The wooden staircase... I don't know why it was there, looked kinda out of place, and surely the original stone steps weren't so worn off that require another wooden staircase to supplement it huh?

Sujigane-mon (Metal Gate, 筋鐵門)

Sujigane gate is the final gate and the most fortified one, completely covered and reinforced with metal.

Finally, entrance to the tenshu-kaku (Important Cultural Property)!

There is no separate charge for entering Tenshu-kaku, it's included inside the ¥500 entrance fee. But visitors will have to deposit their footwear once inside, and change into the rubber shoe they supplied. There are lockers at the back of the hall to house your 'Nike Air' or 'Ferragamo' free of charge.

After depositing your footwear, and changed into the rubber shoe provided, climb the stair to explore the tenshu-kaku! The 2nd level is somewhat a museum.

I believe this is a replica of Kato Yoshiaki's battle suit

And naturally, Matsudaira Sadayuki...

One of the jointing methods of the wooden architecture

The castle architecture was nothing straight-forward, visitors can walk around the square-like building and appreciate the scenery surrounding it, and there's also a small Donjon with surround opening to see Matsuyama afar and where weather permit, Seto Naikai in the distant.

View from the top ^_^

Gleeful visitors happily trying out the samurai outfit for free!

At the top of the castle, there are openings all round to glance at four sides of the horizon, and paid telescope is available for anyone willing to part with ¥100.

Illustration map on top level of castle, I'm not surprise with Japanese, English, Mandarin, and even Korean... but German?? Maybe because German is widely spoken in Continental Europe..

OK, so much for the castle! Before I conclude this chapter, perhaps I'll just share my opinion how best optimise your visit to Matsuyama Castle.
There are three trails leading to the castle, and I had just elaborated on the Kuromon trail above.
A less popular track is Komachi-guchi (古町口) trail, but this track originates out of the way, so unless you are staying nearby, otherwise, there ain't much to see along the track.
The more popular option would be ascending the Shinonome trail or take the ropeway or chairlift from Shinonome-guchi (東雲口), the cost is ¥260 one way or ¥500 return for either transport.

It took me just 15 minutes descending down the Kuromon trail, I picked up my bicycle, and decided it was time for lunch. It was already 2.35pm, and I was hungry like a <(=@=)>, I had Okaido on my mind, which was just at the corner of Shiroyama Park.

Okaido is special, contrary to most other shopping alleys in Japan, Okaido is NOT bicycle friendly. I saw a sign that forbid riding inside the alley way, so I pushed my bike along in search of an eatery. I saw some bicycles parked inside the mall, and wanted to do likewise when an obasan stopped me, indicating that no parking inside the mall was allowed. Well, fine, I pushed on, and later found a junction outside where many bicycles were parked. I happily left my bicycle there and walked the distant to seek out nice food! ^_^
But before that, let's explore Okaido from the outside!

Despite the scale of Matsuyama being far inferior to big cities like Tokyo and Osaka, Okaido still have its own multi-directional traffic crossing, in front of a T-junction. I found that a bit exaggerated, especially for a T-junction though. But anyway, that's a good signboard for locating Okaido, that is, if anyone are so short-sighted to have missed the big sign on top! LOL!

I found this shop selling impressive knitting materials, but apart from that, look what I'd found!

I did mention this shop was selling knitting product, but they showcased & sell some finished products as well, among them, I was surprised to find piggies plush, not only I was a big fan, but also it's not as popular as bears and kitties. So, finding a shop which put pig plushies as their star attraction was a rarity!

A shop that sells Kimono, the more impressive one on the left cost ¥168,000. Of course depending on the design and material used, a well as workmanship, prices varies. But I guess this is a good indication how much one need to pay to get a decent one ^_^

In Okaido, large map can be found... on the ground! This is the first time I saw maps printed on the ground, I was wondering, the cleaners must have had a hard time cleaning it! But I salute the creativity of it nevertheless!

Cute statues outside Gintenkai

Oops! Did I mention Gintenkai?? Haha! I had reached the end of Okaido, it's really high time I search for food ^.^

Ramen Hanatsuki

Found a Ramen outlet with prominent signboards, and decided to give it a try!

Arashi Genkatsu Ramen

Again, I didn't know how to pronounce what I wanted, so I merely pointed to the chef recommendation on their brochure, which was this Arashi Genkatsu Ramen, ¥620. I didn't see any sight of the chef on the brochure, I suppose this outlet was just a franchise, there appeared to be only one young attendant, who also turned out to be the chef, which somehow made me doubt whether I would get the quality ramen I wanted. It took a while, but the soup was absolutely delicious! Sweet broth, chewy noodle (not as chewy as Kagawa's udon, I must admit, but this is ramen afterall), soft and tender chashu (pork)... ummmm.. yummy! I left the restaurant very satisfied!
There was a small incident after that, which I wasn't very pleased. As I picked up my bicycle, an obazan walked up to me, and told me I couldn't park my bicycle there. I apologised embarrassingly, I really didn't know I had parked illegally as I saw tens of bicycle parked along the side alley, I certainly didn't see any sign forbidding it. But the obazan simply couldn't stop nagging, and I told her in the limited Japanese I knew, that I couldn't understand what she was talking as I didn't know Japanese. She dragged me to see a sign on the floor, which indicated 'No bicycle parking'. I was annoyed! Firstly, I already apologised to her, secondly, couldn't she see that I was leaving? Besides, the symbol on the floor was covered by other bicycles when I left my bicycle there, how would I know? And what more did she want? I guessed she could see my annoyance when I slightly raised my voice and told her 'Chotto-mate', and she stopped harassing me after that. I ignored her and pushed my bicycle towards the exit of Okaido.

International Hotel

On my way to my next destination, saw this interesting building, International Hotel, not so much for the Baskin Robbins inside, but notice the church on top??
I was on my way to No 51. Remember the terminology? No 51 here, or Go-jyu-ichi ban in Japanese, refers to what I understood to be, the most impressive temple among Shikoku's 88-temples pilgrimage program. It wasn't easy getting there, as most maps I had on hand did not indicate Ishite-ji's (石手寺) precise location, and I only had Fodor's and Lonely Planet's general map to guide me along, all I knew was, it was somewhere near Dogo Park.

As I rode, I followed the direction of Ishite from the road sign, up a very suspicious slope, before turning a corner and found where I wanted. It really wasn't easy finding it, even from a rider's point of view. I couldn't imagine how people gonna walked here from any tram stop. Simply put, from Dogo-koen tram stop, cut across the park, and walked straight, the distant from the tram station is about 1 km. I was privileged to be riding my way there, otherwise, a more advisable way, is to take the city bus, the bus stop is just outside the temple.

Before I go on further to explore Ishite-ji, allow me to share a story on this awesome temple:
The story goes that a rich man named Emon Saburo who refused to give alms when the great Kobo Daishi came to beg at his door, and even went to such extent as to use violence in chasing him away. It wasn’t long afterward that Saburo’s sons began to die. He lost 7 sons before realizing it could well be his ill treatment of Kobo Daishi which led to such retribution. In his repentance to seek forgiveness, he seek out Kobo Daishi by following his pilgrimage route several rounds but when he subsequently found him, Saburo was breathing his last breath. Before he passed away, he asked Kobo Daishi to let him reborn as the lord of Iyo province, so that he could repay by serving the people in his next life. Kobo Daishi wrote Saburo’s name on a stone and thrust it inside Saburo’s fist, who died with the stone in his hand. Days later, a new born to the lord of Iyo was found to have his hand clasped tight. The boy finally released his grip when a priest was called in to unlock his fist. And his astonished parents found the very stone that Saburo held in his dying moment.

The wordings is not only kanji, it's definitely Mandarin!

Map of the temple site

熊野山

Let's take a closer look at the bundled charm inside!

A bundle of ¥5, usually means good romance <3

Origami cranes

I happened to come across group pilgrims, notice their white jackets? It's imprinted with No 51, Kumano-yama. I believed they were taking buses in their pilgrimage.

The shops on both sides of the alley from Ishite-ji

There were some notable points about Ishite-ji that my pictures here failed to depict entirely. There are two hidden caves inside the temple that even some locals may not be aware of, I managed to find one, right behind the main temple, but the entrance was very narrow, and too dark, I dare not ventured inside :P. I later learned that beyond the dark passage way, one can find 88 buddha statues, each representing one of the temple in the 88-temple pilgrimage program, and after that, a giant Kobo-Daishi statue will appear. I really regret didn't summon enough courage to venture beyond the dark passage. Do study the temple map above to explore this awesome temple better!
It was already 4.40pm, I would need to progress to my next destination... Dogo Onsen!

It wasn't that difficult to head for Dogo Onsen from Ishite-ji, I followed the main road and hit the back of Dogo Onsen easily. If it wasn't for my recce yesterday, I might have thought I was lost, but I found my way to the tram terminal, parked my bicycle there, and heading for the onsen! ^_^

Ah! Botchan Ressha stolen!!

I passed by the location where the Botchan Ressha was on displayed, but found the train gone! I wanted so much to dig out my phone and called the police, but just remembered I couldn't speak Japanese :P
OK, nonsense aside, that just proven that the Botchan Ressha on display was a working train, and was on its scheduled run within the city! :)

5 minutes to six at the Karakuri Clock...

I found that in Japan, it’s wise to bring along a towel wherever you go, not to wipe your sweaty face, but in case you met any robber, you’d still have that last piece of cloth to savage your dignity! LOL! I’m kidding of course, Japan is relatively safe. But the fact is, many places in Japan offers free usage of ashiyu (or foot bath in English). There is one I found right in front of Dogo shopping mall!

Dogo Onsen-eki Ashiyu

I bathed my tired feet before heading for Dogo Onsen, just to have a feel of the ashiyu prior to dipping inside the famous bath house. I deliberately wore sandals the whole day to facilitate these, so as to save the trouble of taking off and wearing shoes and socks ^_^

There was an annoying ojisan singing loudly in his trembling tone in front of the karakuri clock. I couldn't appreciate of course, but it seemed like the locals were entertained!
Hey! I thought I saw him this morning on the foot of Matsuyama Castle! I looked carefully, and saw he was carrying a badge, probably some officer from the local tourism bureau?

Coincidentally, his song finished just as the clock stroke six. About the same time, I witnessed the karakuri clock got into motion, raised itself and revealed a moving sento (bath house) underneath, with characters from Botchan emerging from every sides of the clock revolving to please the crowd, and the singing ojisan had just turned narrator! I couldn't understand a single word he said, but I suppose he was probably elaborating about Soseki's Botchan in relation to this karakuri clock, and I could tell that the spectators were quite enjoying it! ^_^
I couldn't bother about ashiyu anymore, quickly dried my feet and got on taking video of this awesome clockwork! The animation lasted for a few minutes, and I understood it's fascinating spectators at hourly or half-hourly intervals.

Alright, let's get straight to Dogo Onsen!

Pardon that head, it was difficult to wait for everyone to clear

There are a few ways one can enjoy Dogo Onsen, the basic no-frill option cost ¥400, where you get to soak inside kami-no-yu (Bath of the God) on ground floor for an hour.

The same kami-no-yu on 2nd level cost ¥800 but is supplement with bath robe rental, towel, mocha and senbei cracker served on a tatami room. The duration is still an hour.

Tama-no-yu (Bath of the Soul) on the 2nd level cost ¥1,200, comes with all the ¥800 options, but in a less crowded bath room, and you get a view of Yusin-den, a private bath room reserved for the Imperial family’s usage. The duration is still an hour.

The same Tama-no-yu on level 3 cost ¥1,500, with a similar offer of its level 2 counterpart, but patrons get to enjoy resting inside a private room, with dango added with the serving of mocha. The duration is up to 80 minutes.

I chose the basic no-frill option. After payment, I deposited footwear in the free locker outside, proceeded to the tatami changing room, striped into my birthday suit, and inside there’s another locker to safe keep my remaining possession. Then, there is two wings of bath room, there is no significant different between them, I suppose it’s just to segregate the crowd. Inside the changing room, patrons get to rest between bath intervals, with free flow mocha, hot and cold water available to replenish the lost body fluid after the bath. There are also hair dryers, chargeable massage chairs for patrons’ usage. I would like to snap some pictures for illustration inside, but I guess you will probably never step inside Dogo Onsen if I managed to, not to mention getting free accommodation in a police cellar overnight! Haha! And, like any other public bath houses I know, towel and soap are not part of the package. So, remember what I mentioned at the start of this post? LOL!

I took two baths, one at each of the wings, with interval rest, and came out in about an hour's time. I didn’t notice anyone monitoring the time, I suppose it’s just a safety precaution so that one does not get over dehydrated inside.

I left Dogo Onsen, and as I walked to where Botchan Ressha was supposed to be parked, it was back there! I happily shot a few more pictures of the nostalgic train before satisfactorily got on my bicycle.

Wow! It's back!

The rear carriage, couldn't take picture of its interior due to the reflection :(

On my way back, I dropped by a nearby supermarket, and bought dinner over there, as well as drink. I guessed the dinner set had been on the shelf for sometime, I got it with a ¥50 discount.

It was close to 7pm as I left the supermarket, I was thriving to take some night shot, and I thought Matsuyama-shi would do a good spot. It wasn't actually on my way, I detoured a little getting there. I reckoned it would be my regret if I didn't even capture a picture there.

It's not too dark to call this a night shot perhaps, but I couldn't hang around too late as I still had a blog to draft and packing to do :(

Matsuyama-shi eki is just behind Takashimaya

I ate my dinner as I was drafting my blog, again, into late night.. Good night Matsuyama, I would love to spend a few more days, but I couldn't. And I must say, I really enjoy cycling in exploring the city! *muack*


Day 4: 26 Jul 2011 (Tue)

I woke up 6.45am in the morning and carried on drafting my blog and packing up. By 9.55am, I checked out and carried my luggage to the nearby limousine bus stop, I knew a bus would be coming at 10.15am.
In front of the bus stop, I met two ladies from Matsuyama Tourism Bureau dressed in traditional costume and courteously asked permission to take picture with them ~ ^.^ ~
I didn't realise then that the European styled fort is actually on the other side of the train station in the Central Park on a hill, had I knew that, I would probably delay my departure and took a look.
The limousine bus (¥400) came a few minutes late, I almost feared I missed it. But alas, I reached Matsuyama Kanko-ko at 10.33am.

I bought a discounted car ferry ticket to Kure (吳) for ¥2,400 (normal ¥2,600), and still have about 20 minutes before ferry departing, so I hanged around taking pictures.

Matsuyama Tourist Port (Matsuyama Kanko-ko)

I didn't know Iyotetsu train station is so close to Matsuyama Tourist Port!

Main waiting hall

Let me touch on a little on Matsuyama Tourist Port and Matsuyama Seto Naikai Kisen!
To visit Shikoku, if I carry a Japan Rail Pass, I will probably enter Shikoku via Okayama. But without a rail pass, getting to Matsuyama via ferry from Hiroshima is a viable and affordable option! A high speed ferry takes about 1 hour from Hiroshima Ujina Port. A slower car ferry will take twice as long, but cost almost half as much. Note that high speed ferry rarely stops at Kure, check out Seto Naikai Kisen timetable for schedule and ticketing details.
From Matsuyama Tourist Port, limousine bus to Matsuyama and Matsuyama-shi are currently available at approximately hourly interval, which I suppose, was scheduled in regard to ferry timing. Otherwise, there is a train terminal at Takahama which is just 10 minutes walk away, which I only found out as I arrived at the jetty.
As for ferry ticket discount, I wasn't sure whether the ferry discount would be available to walk in passengers, I printed out the whole page from their website and showed it to the ticketing lady during my purchase. They accept major credit cards.

The only boarding gate visible from the main hall

I was deceived by the only boarding gate at the main hall. It was roughly 10 minutes from ferry departure, and I was thinking, something was not right, as boarding should really began by now. I took a closer look at the display board before realising, craps! This was not my boarding gate!
It was then that I noticed that there are minor instructions informing passengers that ferries for Hiroshima and Kure are boarding via another gate through the 2nd level. I hastily made my way there! @_@

Car Ferry to Hiroshima via Kure

Luckily the ship's still docked! Phew! I boarded the ferry with barely minutes to spare, and began exploring the ship immediately after finding a seat.

My seat was the middle one near window

The capacity on a Tuesday morning was far and few, that I somehow managed to grab a rather good seat by the window, and another seat across the dining table for my luggage as well :D

Information Counter

Let's start my ferry exploration from the Information Counter! ^.^
The one odd thing at the counter was a container for Haiku (poetry), knowing well that Matsuyama honoured Masaoka Shiki. I really wonder how's the response, and would really like to ask the lady at the counter if I speak Japanese :P

A tiny game corner.. in Singapore, the jackpot will definitely won't be so lonely!

Prayers Room... Praying to sleeping god! muahaha! Seriously, I saw some passenger sleeping there!

There's even an Instant Noodles vending machine, with hot water provided free at a separately counter!

I always like to take note of the toilet, that indicates how clean is a room maintained. In this case, the ship, can see that the ship's been in service for a long long time.

2nd Class cabin... I didn't see a separate ticket price for this, perhaps upon request onboard? But apparently, there's no taker. And if this is 2nd Class, then what class was I taking? Economy? And where's the 1st Class cabin??

Bye bye Matsuyama! Till we meet again! *muack*

The very first island I saw within Seto Naikai :) The smaller ship must be the High Speed Jet ferry

I tried to carry on blogging onboard after the brief ferry tour, but I was too tired after staying late into the night trying to finish it. In the end, I felt asleep until I was about to reach Ondo, I didn't know it was Ondo at first, but I later recognised the red bridge as I headed there subsequently.
I alighted at Kure, and to my surprise, almost 80% of the ferry passengers did so too! I suppose they were probably regular passengers who knew the way, as Kure station is more accessible than Hiroshima from the ferry route, not to mention cheaper and faster so long as your eventual destination is not Hiroshima city center.

Kure Port from the front, with its sheltered walkway to train station

Yamato Museum

Iron Whale Museum, right beside Yamato Museum

Pass through CREST Departmental Store to get to the Tourist Information Center and Kure Station

The bus stop is at the right, beyond the picture

A flower I found in front of Kure Station known as '風蝶花'

I followed the indicated route from the jetty towards train station, and saw the two museums near the port, namely Yamato Museum, and the Iron Whale Museum.
Yamato Museum displayed a scaled replica of the Yamato battleship used in WWII, and Iron Whale Museum displayed a big submarine 'Akishio'. Both didn't appeal to me, Pass!
I deposited my luggage at Kure station locker, and proceeded to take a bus for Ondo (¥400).
I was pondering whether to take the ferry from Kure side or Ondo side, eventually settled for the later as I knew exactly the location of the jetty there. And as I didn't know the bus stop location on Ondo, might as well took the bus all the way across the bridge and find out!

Ondo Fishery Association

I alighted outside Ondo Fishery Association, and backtrack towards the jetty according to the Japanese map I acquired from Kure Tourism Center. I strolled along Ondo Old Road, passing through some notable building such as Sakura-yu, Okonomiyaki-ya, Shirotani Honkan etc.

Ondo Fishing Boats

From Ondo Fishery Association, walked through this alley way to the Old Street

The fishmonger and the cats are good friends! ^.^

Sakura-yu

You mean, that's all they are selling?

Clever use of plants to shield up the mess! :P

Reminds me of Singapore many decades ago

Okonomiyaki! I was tempted to try, but I was in a hurry :(

This is odd, there is a UCC (coffee) board outside, but it's actually a wood workshop. Perhaps the cafe is on 2nd level?

Shirotani Honkan and the trademark post box

So, that's what Shirotani's selling?

Stone pathment Road (石疊坂)

Toraya Hotel Annex Building

Toraya Hotel Honkan. I was surprise to find a hotel on Ondo, and I really wonder whether there's any occupancy

Okonomiyaki-ya

Tunnel underneath the spiral road

Local Specialty Shop

Shoe shop. Why do I have a feeling these shoes had been displayed for decades? @_@

A view from the top

Ondo Tosen

Ticketing Counter. After paying for ferry fare (¥80), the obasan (hidden from the picture) urged me to step forward to the pier in Japanese, although I couldn't understand a single word she said, but I understood her sign language ^.^

The boatman saw me from opposite the bank, steered his boat over

Goodby Ondo!

Ondo Tosen-guchi (Kure)

Ondo Tosen-guchi

I had just missed the 2.40pm bus for Kure >.<" That meant I probably couldn't catch the 3.15pm JR Marine View train for Hiroshima. Boarded the 2.55pm (this time, the bus came late), ¥320.

 

I reached Kure station at 3.19pm, but funny, the bus did not stop inside Kure station, I had to alight outside Sogo and walked over, phew! Almost skipped my stop. I was pondering whether to shop at Sogo or heading straight for Hiroshima. I took a glance inside Sogo, agh, nothing impressed me. I got to the station, collected my luggage, and took the 3.30pm Kure Line to Hiroshima (¥480).

Kure Line for Hiroshima

The train to Hiroshima took 46 minutes. I didn't stay at Hiroshima last time round, took a late train and stayed in Nagoya 3 years ago. This time round, I would have more time to enjoy my shopping here ^.^!

 

I knew the direction well, after alighted from the train, came out from the underpass, and I saw my accommodation for the next two nights straight ahead. I had to say, this location was simply perfect! I'd prefer south end of the station, nearer to city center, and my research revealed that airport limousine would be departing from the Shinkansen-guchi, at north end of the station. Although city center, Kamiya-cho's transport network would be an excellent choice, but it was not in my plan.
I snapped a few pictures, and rolled my luggage towards the hotel. Checked in at 4.30pm and allocated Room 1309.

Room 1309. First time I encountered LCD TV in Toyoko-inn

This was also the first time I encountered bidet with heating!

Window view

I merely rest for a while and within 15 minutes, I left for Marina Hop, notably Chugoku's largest outlet mall. I need to walk back to the station for a bus to Marina Hop, but before that, ahem, I desperately needed food, or late lunch >.<"

Opposite my hotel, I found a historical bridge that I didn't notice previously...

Enkou Bridge

Self-explanatory haha!

Hiroshima Station

I walked back to the station in search for food. Found a supermarket in ASSE, and happily bought some finger food to eat on the bus to Marina Hop in Kanon Marina. It was already 5pm when I boarded the bus (¥250), I understood that many establishments close early in Japan, probably around 7pm, so I couldn't afford to 'lunch'-in. The bus journey took 40 minutes, after passing by Nishi-Hiroshima Airport, nowadays a private airport ever since the current Hiroshima Airport took over the perfecture's aerial traffic in 1993. In fact, as the bus approaching Marina Hop, the vicinity was so deserted that somehow made me wondered whether I took the correct bus, I did of course.

When the bus stopped at a big open space, I had some doubt, and asked the bus driver in my broken Japanese, whether that was Marina Hop. The kind and spontaneous driver responded in Japanese and pointed the direction, I only made up one phrase, 'Marina Hop', so that must be it!
And, within a couple minutes walk, I saw the trademark above, the mermaid.

ABC Mart

ABC Mart was perhaps my most familiar outlet mall franchise, and it proved to be the only attractive outlet in Marina Hop =.="

Marina Hop is rather family oriented

I was trying to find out whether there's any ferry getting here, but guess these are all private yatch

Marina Hop was very nicely decorated, to the theme of the nearby port. However, perhaps due to the location, too remote from city center, not many visitors came here. There were many unoccupied shop spaces, and even some of the existing shops looked lacklustre. The most ironical outlet was an aquarium, charging for entrance, but from far, I could see the fishes were nothing impressive. Sigh, wasted my time here, it might be the largest outlet mall in Chugoku, but certainly the worst I had ever been. I left within 40 minutes, with a large fraction of that time frame spent outside the outlet mall. By 6.30pm, I was already on the bus back.

Reached Hiroshima station at 7.05pm, and hungrily hunting for my dinner. Settled for a ¥580 Spicy Ramen on level 2 of ASSE food alley, very affordable price, and nice taste! ^.^
After that, I crossed the underpass and walked over to the Northern exit of Hiroshima station (Shinkansen-guchi) to recce the location of the airport limousine bus stop before returning to hotel to continue on my blog, but not before taking these..

Reached hotel room at 8.40pm, but slept around 2am.. you can guess how late I spent drafting the required blog post... @_@


Day 5: 27 Jul 2011 (Wed)

Ah! I miss Toyoko's breakfast! But not everyday lah, kinda bland.. haha!

I woke up early at 6.30am to continue on my blog posting, and had to break for my breakfast at 7.40am, finished it within 40 minutes (taken so long because I was also trying to print out my boarding pass for my flight tomorrow), this was the first free breakfast throughout this trip leh! Haha! I returned to hotel room to carry on blogging afterward. Not that I wanted to be so hardworking, but partially because it was drizzling and I hate to travel in rain.
By 10.25am, I reckoned the rain must have stopped, and in any case, I couldn't delay any further, I might run out time as I had two prefectures to visit today ^_^

I bought a 1 Day Hiroden Street car ticket with Miyajima ferry bundle at the Hiroshima Hiroden terminal for ¥840, and boarded the tram at 10.38am for Miyajima-guchi. It took me more than an hour getting there, and it was already 11.50am when I reached Hiroden Miyajima-guchi terminal.
Depending on where you are boarding the tram, it could be faster and economical taking the tram to Miyajima-guchi, but certainly not in my case. It's still cheaper, but taking JR Sanyo line (¥400 one way, 26 mins, 20-30 mins interval) would be faster for me, as I stayed near Hiroshima station. But I had plan to visit downtown at the end of my agenda today, so utilising Hiroden Street car would make economical sense. Besides, getting on a tram also allowed me a view right in the heart of the city, although there wasn't much notable beauty, strictly speaking.

A minute before reaching Miyajima-guchi, the street car made a stop at a temporary station, they were having a Boat Race here! I only realise after returning to Singapore that Miyajima-guchi happened to be hosting the touring series while I was there, and visitors can bet on the boat race just like betting on horses. I wasn't keen, but I was surprise the street car bothered to stopover, particularly where Miyajima-guchi was just a stone throw away, less than 1 minutes on the slow tram!

Hiroden Miyajima-guchi station

Not to be confused with JR Miyajima-guchi station, Hiroden Miyajima-guchi station is slightly nearer to the jetty, and actually quite near JR Miyajima-guchi station too!

Matsudai Ferry (Middle) & JR Ferry (Right) are just next to each other. On the left are shops lah!

Matsudai Ferry

Miyajima-guchi jetty, JR Ferry on the left

I did mention I bought a Hiroden cum Miyajima ferry bundle ticket didn't I? Ticket holder can take Matsudai ferries for free, but otherwise the ferry price for both Matsudai Ferry and JR Ferry are the same (¥170). It seemed like the ferry companies were operating at interval, if one ferry's at Miyajima-guchi, the other must be at Miyajima. So, for walk-in ticket purchaser, just get whichever ferry that would be leaving next. The ship are about the same. It's just a 5 minutes trip, most people stand during the trip to view the torii gate anyway, no need to bother about comfort, that is, if there's any difference in the first place.
By the way, from Miyajima's Matsudai ferry counter, there's bicycle available for rental at ¥300 for 3 hours, and ¥100 part-there-of. But Miyajima is very accessible on foot, beyond Momiji-dani, the route would probably be too steep anyway, I don't think it's a good idea.

 

Miyajima jetty

JR Ferry (Well, I was on Matsudai Ferry, couldn't take my own ferry!)

Miyajima Jetty

Miyajima jetty

Outside Miyajima jetty

A deer greeting me at Miyajima! It reminded me of a childhood rhyme.. any guess? Doe, a deer, a female deer...

This male deer was rather feral, shoved me away when I attempted to touch its antler. Well, better not enraged it :P

Miyajima is famous for its woodcraft, especially the spatula.. Trust me, it's not what I guess you'd think :D

It's been 3 years, I still remember the route well, and had always wanted to come back, to what I feel, the best among Nihon Sankei

Itsukushima Shrine - UNESCO designated World Heritage Site

Erm... I have been to the shrine before, and was reluctant to pay the entrance fee this time, gave it a miss. Save for the sealed (very) steep bridge, I couldn't recall seeing much fascinating stuff inside. The most notable architecture, is definitely its torii gate! But getting to the gate outside is free of charge, and since it was low tide, I could walk up close, and appreciate it from any angle!

Watashiwa

When I was at Matsushima last November, visiting the other Nihon Sankei, I was genuinely thinking about this. I missed the torii gate, but I guessed I missed the deers more! Not forgetting the temples of course. There would be more interaction, while I could only appreciate Matsushima islets from far. I really rated Itsukushima torii gate very highly, and here I am, at the foot of this awesome monument! Now, the only remaining Nihon Sankei I have yet to visit is Kyoto Tango Peninsular's Amanohashidate, which is a pain to go, because the transport is costly, and regardless whether I am carrying a JR Pass or not, I'd still have to fork out extra for a private sector of the railway. It wasn't near, approximately 2 hours from Kyoto by bus =.="

Itsukushima Shrine

荒胡子神社

Kaki-yaki! 3 for ¥500

The price for kaki-yaki (Grilled Oysters) are quite standardise on Miyajima, 2 for ¥400 (minimum order) or 3 for ¥500. Seriously, I really missed the free flow grilled oysters at Matsushima-kaigan for ¥2000 (45 minutes), so I ordered 3. I still vaguely remembered the outlet I patronised 3 years ago, but this particularly outlet is worth mentioning. The master thoughtfully peeled off the oysters from their shell upon grilling, so when it was served, patrons can easily suck the oyster out without much effort peeling with the toothpicks provided. (At about the same time, the East Japan winner also went to Matsushima-kaigan, according to her blog, there is no more oysters this year as they were all swept away by the 3.11 tsunami)
By the way, the lady assistant spoke reasonably good English, and this store offers three different types of sauces, giving each of my 3 oysters a rather unique taste, oishii! I would strongly recommend this outlet!

Miyajima Momiji-dani Ropeway

This bridge that link Itsukushima Shrine was spectacular! The shrine end was so steep that it's almost impossible to climb, I believe it was made to block entrance from the shrine end, but it's still pretty dangerous to slide down.

Come Spring, this whole street would be decorated by cherry blossom, very romantic!

Daigan-ji

I still remember Daigan-ji (大願寺) well, an open-concept temple. The above is the 'main-gate', with the deities protected behind mesh. When I came here 3 years ago, I thought it was undergoing renovation, apparently not.

Heiwa Kannon

不動明王.. wanted to take a closer picture, but saw a plaque indicating photo-taking prohibited :(

Main Temple

Ooh.. even a deer came over and say a little prayer! ^.^

儼島寶物館 (Itsukushima Treasure Hall, chargable, didn't go in ^.^)

The making of.. Momiji Manju

Omotesanto

World's largest wooden spatula

I'll have to elaborate a little on this. Wooden scoops are very popular in Miyajima, not so much as a real wooden rice scoop, but more for offering to deities for blessing in many aspects, including romance, studies, luck etc. Many of woodcraft from Miyajima bear the name of Aki-no-Miyajima (安芸の宮島), Aki is the ancient name for the region. And this giant wooden scoop here, occupies one whole shop space, can't imagine how thick was the original tree trunk @_@!

My favourite shop! ^.^

The deers patronising shop, the attendant's fanning the deers!

Don't drop your spectacles, the deers patronise restaurant too!

JR Miyajima-guchi

It was close to 3.30pm, I had to leave. I still have Iwakuni in my agenda, much as I would like to spend more time in Miyajima, I couldn't. I took Matsudai ferry back to Miyajima-guchi, and took the 3.57pm Sanyo Line for Iwakuni (¥320).

Getting to Kintaikyo, JR Kawanishi is actually the nearer train station, with some 20 minutes walk. But most visitors took the more convenient route of a bus transfer at Iwakuni station.

My intention was to visit Kintaikyo (錦帶橋) in Iwakuni (岩國). Getting to Kintaikyo by train can be via Sanyo Main Line, alight at Iwakuni Station (from Hiroshima, ¥740) and transfer bus (¥240). Shinkansen doesn't stop at Iwakuni, has to alight at Shin-Iwakuni Station (新岩國), and transfer a bus there. Given a choice, I'd prefer Iwakuni Station, because Shin-Iwakuni seemed like unpopulated! LOL! I also learned that, from Hiroshima Bus Center, there are buses coming here directly, but I don't know much details, only know one-way ¥900, return ¥1,600.

Kintaikyo

I reached Iwakuni at 4.20pm, a familiar sight greeted me at the platform! I came to Iwakuni specifically to visit Kintaikyo, easily the star attraction of Yamaguchi prefecture. There seemed to be some exhibition going on in Iwakuni station.

I bought a commemorative returned bus ticket (¥480) from the bus counter outside Iwakuni Station, and boarded Bus No. 2 for Kintaikyo at 4.30pm.

Tanabata Festival?

Along the way, I saw Tanabata, I almost thought it's August and I'm in Sendai! It was later that I realise Tanabata was celebrated on different date in different region. Sendai's between August 6-8, but other part of Japan may be earlier.

Anyway, I still remember well the alighting spot for the bridge, I reached at 4.45pm, and strolled leisurely towards this most beautiful bridge of Japan! The last time I was here, it was hanami season, even though the cherry bulbs weren't at full bloom, the pink effervescence was still captivating. Now Summer, Kintaikyo diffuses a very lazy sleepy scent, that made the whole area looking rather deserted. All I could say is, the crowd is definitely missing!

 I was wondering whether to cross this Kinjouhashi (錦城橋) to the other side of the bank, instead of paying ¥300 for Kintaikyo, but I remembered last time round, there's also gantry at the other side of Kintaikyo. After some consideration, decided against it. I took a while taking pictures before crossing Kintaikyo.

A hotel near Kintaikyo

So much on Kintaikyo, perhaps I should explore a little beyond...

Kojiro Sasaki

3 years ago, I bought Iwakuni zushi here, very cheap! But they closed this time round.

Back to the other side of the bridge, searching for dinner!

One of the outlets selling zushi. very expensive!

I wanted to try Iwakuni zushi, but the outlet I patronised three years ago wasn't opened. I found this more prominent establishment near Kintaikyo bus stop, but the price was @_@!
Come back to Iwakuni zushi, no, I didn't spell wrongly, but this was how the traditional Japanese cuisine should be. Let me quote directly from Japan-in-motion website:

"Iwaukuni’s most famous local dish goes by a number of names. Called Iwakuni-zushi, oshizushi, and even tonosamazushi (lord's sushi), the dish is well worth seeking out if you visit Kintaikyo. According to locals, Kikkawa Hiroie, builder of the original Iwakuni castle, is said to have ordered his men to invent a food that could be easily transported and preserved during periods of warfare. The result was, oddly enough, Iwakuni-zushi.

The dish is best known for the unique way it’s prepared. First, a large volume of rice is cooked and flavored with vinegar. Renkon (lotus root), eggs and chrysanthemum petals are mixed into the rice. Next, sawara (Spanish mackerel) and aji (horse mackerel) are pickled, stripped from the bone, and added to the mixture. This mixture is then spread over more vinegared rice, which has been packed into a large wooden box mold. A lid is laid directly on the rice, and the Iwakuni-zushi is then pressed 3 to 5 times, traditionally by the chef stepping onto the lid to compact it with his own bodyweight. Finally, the sushi is cut into large, rectangular blocks to be either eaten or carried into battle, depending on your circumstances at the moment. Several places near Kintaikyo offer Iwakuni-zushi. Try asking at the information booth near the east end of the bridge, or in one of the nearby antique shops."

What we are commonly seeing today, are practically known as Edo Sushi, an evolution from traditional zushi, easier in preparation, and usually cheaper.
Anyway, unwilling to pay an exorbitant price, I decided to return to Iwakuni station vicinity to search for my early dinner, or late lunch (I only had 3 grilled oysters and an Uji-tea shaved ice since breakfast =.=")

Remember me mentioning the commemorative return bus ticket I bought? On it was the pictures of 3 specially decorated themed buses, one Kintaikyo Bus in hanami season, which I saw while waiting for my bus back to Iwakuni.
Another was Chan Bus, a pink lady in silhouette. I didn't see it during this trip, but took it 3 years ago on my way to Shin_Iwakuni ^_^

And the third, happened to be the bus I took on my way back to Iwakuni, Shima Kosaku Bus (島耕作). Shima Kosaku was a manga character by Kenshi Hirokane (弘兼憲史). I remember seeing this manga in Kinokuniya back in Singapore more than a decade ago, but had never read it before. Hirokane was borned in Iwakuni, and given comic artists' heavenly status in a manga-crazy country, Iwakuni naturally worship Hirokane. Oh, Kenshi Hirokane happened to be the husband of another famous manga artist I crazed, Fumi Saimon (柴門ふみ).

Back to Iwakuni station, there is this familiar supermarket next to the station. Three years ago, I bought a pack of Denroku Chocolate (Manufactured in Yamagata), the rich milk taste and thick and crunchy peanuts captivated my taste bud so vigorously that I couldn't help searching for it for the rest of my trip. And even my previous year trip to Sendai, I simply could not forget Denroku! Of course, there are also a few other brand offering similar taste, but Denroku was more popularly available. This time round, I also bought half a dozen from Takamatsu, but I only managed to find the bigger pack here, which I savaged until I reached home! Yummy! (For picture, see my post on Sendai)

Ajian

Alright, so much for my chocolate 'pilgrimage'. Back to Iwakuni station, I found this eatery inside Iwakuni station, just opposite the station control office.

I was impressed by their daily selection displayed outside their shop, particularly their affordable price, and decided to give it a try! For ¥780, the set meal included a bowl of udon, pickles, salad, omelette, and unagi-sushi, let me try and provide a brief review!
As usual, the restaurant waitress, an obasan, leading me cheerfully to my table. I showed her my jotted note, she noted and served me mocha as I was waiting for the food. I waited for around 10 minutes, perhaps due to my hunger, I found the meal exceptionally nice!

Oishii! Let me comment on individual portion~

The star attraction has to be this Iwakuni zushi, though I very much suspect whether it really went through the entire procedure illustrated above, the vinegar rice was seasoned appropriately, the prawn was sweet, and strips of egg omelette spiced up the zushi. But personally, I prefer fresh sashimi topped, so I won't say this was fabulous, but nice nevertheless!

The omelette has a rich egg taste, but I was particularly pleased with the unagi, with its sweet and soft texture, as if melting in my mouth, well, almost! The salad was not exceptionally memorable, but quite nice too!

Ooh! Ever since I tried Sanuki udon, I fell in love with it! Having said that, many other udon are simply pretenders, far from the quality I tried in Takamatsu. But Ajian's udon was said to come from Kagawa (Sanuki), however, I found that the broth was rather sweet and tasty, however, the udon, decorated with spring onions and Japanese fishcake, was not as chewy as the one I'd tried in Takamatsu, nevertheless, still better than many I found back home. Naturally, I don't suppose Singapore import its udon all the way from Shikoku!
Ah! I had a sumptuous meal, and wasn't stingy to tell the obasan waitress 'oishii' as I made my payment over the counter. For ¥780, this was awesome quantity and quality!

As can be seen from the picture, it was close to 6.40pm after I finished my dinner, I took the 6.50pm train back to Miyajima-guchi (¥320). When I reached Miyajima-guchi at 7.13pm, I wasn't able to catch the 7.15pm ferry back to Miyajima. I had wanted to take pictures of the torii gate during high tide, and hopefully, in night illumination. But as night looming, there was no indication the torii gate would be illuminated, I was pondering whether to take a chance or to forgo it altogether, given the constraint of last ferry leaving Miyajima at 8.15pm. It would be very rush if I took the next ferry at 7.30pm, probably had to run a little, agh! Forget it! This would be the last night in Hiroshima before my flight the next evening, guess I'd better take some night shot downtown. Besides, I still have a blog post to make (although I really hate doing it particularly when the admin always screw up my effort >.<").
So, I transferred to Hiroden, and headed straight for A-Bomb Dome (Gen Bakudome-mae). I remember coming across the night view of the dome the night before, quite pretty at night, and since I was possessing a Hiroden 1 Day Pass, might as well made full use of it.

The Atomic Bomb Dome was relatively left untouched since the Atomic bombardment in 1945, it was one of the few remaining architectures not been wipe off entirely.

Hon-dori, Hiroshima's most famous shopping alley

Seriously, I didn't find many nice spot for night pictures in Hiroshima. Satisfied with what I'd got, I took a street car back to hotel, alighting at Inari-machi (稻荷町) and took the short walk back, reaching hotel 9.20pm.
Night, busy packing and furnishing my last blog post in Japan.


Day 6: 28 Jul 2011 (Thu)
This is considered an extra day for the trip. I was suppose to fly back the previous evening according to my original plan, but was later told that I had to stay one more day as the organiser meant 5 full days, not 5D4N as what I understood. So I reshuffled my itinerary to include Uchiko (which I screwed up) and Ondo, and slightly alleviated my schedule. I would have attempted to be more ambitious if I could have known it earlier and had more time to react, at least I could have included Okayama, but I was constraint by the returning flight from Hiroshima airport, which I had committed earlier >.<"

I had a late breakfast this morning at 8.20am. Within 20 minutes, I finished and returned to my room to continue packing. I checked out hotel at 10am, the latest I could stay, left my luggage at the concierge before proceeding to tram station in front of Hiroshima station and boarded the 10.10am street car to Kamiya-cho (紙屋町).
The first stop I planned to visit was Hiroshima Castle, but before that, let's explore Sogo along the way, right in front of Kamiya-cho-nishi.

There happened to be a Doraemon Adventures at 9th floor, I was keen to take a look, but unwilling to pay ¥600 entrance fee to enjoy the rides and games along with the many kids around :P (made me look so old! LOL!)

Hiroshima Bus Center offers highway buses to nearby and major cities as well as airport limousine

The same airport limousine that I would be taking from Hiroshima station to airport, but contrary to taking from the Bus Center, taking limousine from Hiroshima Station Shinkansen-guchi doesn't require stopover.

I was a bit curious of the Hiroshima Bus Center, locating on the 2nd and 3rd level of the building (for arrival and departure), and if I had managed to gather more information online, I'd probably have included Sanin-do in my plan!

I headed for Hiroshima castle subsequently. While 3 years ago, I didn't proceed near the castle, this time I did.

Main gate. Notice the spectacle frame? Someone probably forgot it there :P

Hiroshima castle from close

I didn't enter the castle. While many of Japan's castles have their own heritage and cultural values, Hiroshima castle has little. Mainly because it's constructed of cement and lacked the traditional wooden charm of other more established castles. The Matsuyama Castle I visited in Matsuyama is a more worthwhile choice. Besides, the most charming aspect of this castle was to see it from afar.

Sisters statue outside Hiroshima library

Pacela.. I was very tempted to visit

Atomic Bomb Dome

The picture was formed with origame cranes

Had to take these pictures from an angle to reduce reflection

A nice cafe along Motoyasu-gawa

River cruise to Miyajima, but not cheap though

Cost ¥1,900 one way, and another ¥1,500 if the return trip is desire

Hon-dori

Alright!! Shopping! It was about 12pm, I was still full after a 'late' breakfast, and I had deliberately penned in shopping before hitting one of Hiroshima's most famous cuisine! I enjoyed shopping in Hon-dori, or many other Japan's sheltered alleys. I couldn't find anymore Denroku chocolate though, but very tempted to buy fruits home from one of the supermarkets. I did encounter one fashion stall, where they were selling nice Piggy Tees, that I had never seen it elsewhere, but I was put off by the price tag (¥1,500) >.<".

Kawaii ne~!!!

Okonomi-mura!

The very first time, I tried Hiroshima's Okonomiyaki at this Genzo outlet, and made a joke of it for not understanding Japanese! But I ain't gonna visit here this time ^_^

I could have walked through the entire Hon-dori within 15 minutes per my pace, but I took 45 minutes, to reach Okonomi-mura, the city's landmark building with a collection of 4 levels of tiny Okonomi-yaki outlets. In Hiroshima, their local style Okonomi-yaki is a must-try! Osaka also has its own version of Okonomi-yaki, perhaps more popular outside Japan, but I heard Hiroshima's version is sweeter, with layered ingredients, but maybe due to the more tedious work in cooking, it isn't as popular as their Osaka counterpart.

Hirochiyan, Level 3, Okonomi-mura

I exercised my scrutinised shoppers' instinct, and wanted to recce the entire 4 levels before selecting a cheap, nice outlet with English menu, but at level 3, outside Hirochiyan, I was caught by the spontaneity of the obasan calling out to me. Well, alright then.
She passed me a Japanese menu, which I kindly declined and trying my luck asking for an English menu in my broken and limited Japanese, "Eigo-menu kudasai!" Good thing, she really had it!
Okonomi-yaki is but a general term, you can add or select ingredients onto it as you like, which is what the name implies, "As you like it"!
However, my previous trip to Genzo Okonomi-yaki, I simply responded "Hai (Yes)" to every question the chef poised without realising what he was trying to ask. I guess he realised I understood no Japanese and passed me an English menu. On it, there was options such as noodle types (udon, soba), meat type (pork, seafood, chicken etc). So, I made a fool of myself! LOL! I don't bear any grudges over this, but simply wanted to try out a different outlet this time round. Now I smart, I asked for English menu.. hahaha!

Obasan handled the noodles and 'marketing', lol!

Ojisan took care of the rest and integration!

and the end product is a yummy Hiroshima cuisine!

I ordered the cheapest ¥735 on the menu, with meat (after confirming it's pork), and soba, and was served a cup of water. The rich and sweet taste of Okonomi-yaki was tantalising! The taste somehow reminded me of Mee-goreng, but with more fanciful look and preparation, delicious!

After lunch, I had one final cuisine to try in Hiroshima before flying back, but I would not want to stuffed myself too full within one meal. I carried on shopping around,walked back towards Hiroshima station, hopefully digested my lunch before my next meal.

Enko-gawa in front of Hiroshima Station

As I reached Enko-gawa in front of Hiroshima station, I came across this interesting boathouse, which was also a spot for fortune telling. And, it was also a jetty for tour cruise!

I You Mart

I love to visit market wherever I go, and definitely not gonna give this 'I You Mart' a miss when I have sufficient time. The name's funny, for a traditional market at least, and in it, there's even a shrine occupying one shop space. I had been thinking of buying some fruits back home for my parents, given the ridiculously priced Japan air flown fruits back home. I had in mind Kyoho grapes, peaches, basically fruits from West Japan. And I found the Kyoho grapes (Kumamoto) from a vendor in I You Mart reasonably price, I bought a 1kg box for ¥780 (等級: 秀), not that it looked better than those I saw at the supermarket, but the grapes were conveniently packed in a hard board box, easier for me to hand-carry on flight.

I then turned the corner and came across a shop offering discounted Shinkansen tickets, I won't say the discount was very attractive, certainly not as worth as getting a JR Pass. But for information nonetheless, the discount varied from ¥110 to ¥1,840, depending on locations between Hakata and Tokyo, mostly by Nozomi. ^_^

After this, I went over to the supermarket YOURS LIVI beneath ASSE Departmental store at Hiroshima station, bought two Onomichi peaches (¥398) and a green tea (¥78) before going for an early dinner at the very same outlet I had my dinner two nights ago. It's coincidental, they happened to be offering the cheapest Unagi-don in the 'correct' proportion.

I thought I took the picture of the restaurant previously, but I didn't, so I only have this poster to show for :(

Unagi-don, seasonal offer, ¥880

Unagi is very famous in Hiroshima, I used the term 'correct' proportion because I wasn't exactly hungry yet, and didn't really yearn for a full meal. And restaurant usually charge > ¥1,000 for a bigger, full portion. It was about 4.15pm then, strictly speaking, too early for dinner. But I needed to catch a 7.45pm flight, working backward, that meant I probably had to leave for airport around 5.30pm. From then until boarding the flight for Singapore, I probably would not consume anymore food until breakfast was served onboard shortly before reaching Singapore, that would be next morning!
Anyway, the meal came with a bowl of miso soup and pickles, I found the unagi sweet and tender, the texture much softer than those I tried back home. Overall, I was rather satisfied with the quality!

After dinner, on my way back to the hotel for my luggage, I came across a concert at the underground of Hiroshima station. The band was singing 'Itsy Bitsy Teenie Weenie Yellow Polka Dot Bikini', a cover of Brian Hyland's 1960 hit. Not that I particularly love that song, but the lead vocal, the lady seated in front of the organ, has a soft and crystal crisp voice, giving this oldie a new and vibrant life! I was mesmerised, and simply love that voice! I stayed until she finished that song before reluctantly leaving the mini concert. Anyway, the subsequent song didn't impress me :P
By 5pm, I was already at the hotel, surfing internet for a short while, before collecting my luggage, and leaving for Hiroshima station Shinkansen-guchi by 5.15pm. It was a good thing I recce for the exact location two nights ago, it wasn't difficult to find, just that it's not convenient to carry heavy luggage, search around the correct spot in a hurry.
I reached the bus stop by 5.27pm, just as the usher was about to get me onto the departing coach, I took a quick glance and noted there weren't much empty seat available. As I wasn't keen to share seats, I gently declined his offer. I was targeting the 5.45pm limousine anyway, there was no hurry getting onto a previous one. I took my time paying for the ticket from the vending machine (¥1,300). To be honest, I found it expensive, though still relatively cheaper than Narita's ¥3,000 for about the same duration (1 hr), probably due to different toll charges. Hiroshima's airport by the way, is well hidden inside the mountains.

I reached Hiroshima airport at 6.35pm, snapped a few pictures before proceeding to the departure hall. Knowing I probably would not be eating again until breakfast onboard, I washed up before proceeding to the check-in counter at 7.05pm. It was an absolutely wise decision, as I encountered a totally different procedure when I was told my deposited luggage would go all the way to Singapore, which meant I won't be seeing it at Haneda. I double confirmed with another lady handling my luggage, as I would not like my luggage stranded, but I was only relieved upon seeing it in Changi later. When I came to Tokushima, it wasn't handled that way, I had to collect luggage from Haneda and carried it to Terminal 1 for checking in.

The JAL attendant at the counter also passed me a JAL Sky Shuttle ticket, a very big piece A4 size paper, for shuttle bus connecting Haneda Terminal 1 and International Terminal, this further puzzled me, because when I came from Haneda to Tokushima, I didn't need anything of that sort, and I thought I could take that same shuttle bus, no? Anyway, she took quite some time to process my check-in, by the time the whole check-in process was completed, I took the next 15 minutes briefly touring the airport and snapped some pictures, before proceeded to clear custom (It's a domestic flight, but still need to check for prohibited possession). But one thing I found very weird in Hiroshima airport, the observation hall was closed when I visited, unusually early, not to mention there's a fee visiting it! @_@

Hiroshima Airport Left wing - JAL

Hiroshima Airport Right wing - ANA

Hiroshima Airport was basically splitted into two wings, for JAL and ANA respectively. It also carries some limited international flights as well, I was curious about the international sector, but didn't have the time to find out. I hastily went to the 3rd level, and found a closed Observation Hall, along with a few restaurants. That's all the time I had for Hiroshima airport before proceeding for my flight.

Hiroshima Airport Level 3

JL1614 for Haneda

I boarded the flight at 7.30pm, and truly enjoyed the flight! I didn't notice any earphone provided during my flight for Tokushima, but I saw the passenger walking in front of me grabbing a pair at the plane door, I simply followed suit. I really appreciate one particular channel of soft jazz music, and still remembered that covered Stevie Wonder's hit, Easy Lovers, that I heard onboard! And, one reason I love night flight, I was able to witness the awesome night view along the way!
As soon as my flight touched down at 9.10pm, I followed the direction for the JAL Sky Shuttle, but was very surprise to find I was the only passenger proceeding to the shuttle holding hall! That meant for the whole flight I was the only international passenger??

No bull, I was really the only one at the waiting hall

The shuttle bus came at 9.36pm, and progressed along the route inside the restricted zone towards Haneda International Building. When it eventually stopped, a stoic face security guard led us up a lift, and came out via Haneda International Building departure hall! That meant I would have to clear custom again, I meant the security screen :( But anyway, at least I got to shop around the public area as well! :)

Haneda celebrating Tanabata??

Ah! Familiar figure came here all the way from Shikoku to send me off??

cute huh? That brow reminded me of Crayon Shin-chan

JAL's mascot, Shirotan

In gratitude of JAL, I was really tempted to buy one home!

Hey Royal Highness! ^_^ Believe me, she is the real Queen of Japan, and more famous than Queen Elizabeth II!

Arrrw! My childhood idol!

Goodbye Haneda, when will I see you again?

I was very fortunate to have won this memorable trip! Last November, when I embarked on my Tohoku adventures, I was thinking of Miyajima while visiting Matsuyama, two of Japan's best three views (Nihon Sankei), I was thinking about Amanohashidate (天橋立, the third), and Sanin-do (山陰道) onboard JL035 home, as I was watching Yuji Oda's (織田裕二) Amalfi. Coincidentally, Yuji Oda (along with Honami Suzuki) reminded me of Matsuyama with his serial, Tokyo Love Story by Fumi Saimon (柴門ふみ).
Will I be visiting Amanohashidate and Sanin-do next year? Probably not... I won't say never, but I'm unlikely to participate again ^_^